Yacht Kerry Deare of Barnegat

Sail Care Simplified

2010-12-01T09:27:00.039-05:00

I have several friends who make a living building and repairing sails and they're not going to like what I say here, so let's just lay it on the table. Unless your sails are heavily damaged or need adjustments you simply cannot do by hand at home, there is absolutely no need to spend money sending sails to the sail loft annually. There, I've said it, and I'm stickin' to it. Now let's review the three standard methods that experienced sailors use to ruin a perfectly good sail, new or otherwise. Some of these tricks can accomplish the objective in a single summer sailing season. Others require more time, patience, and effort.

First, make sure you do everything in your power to guarantee chafe. Here are just a few suggestions. I know they work because I've tested them many times on my own boat.

Never tape the rig.
Have the main ride up and down on the standing rig as long as possible when sailing downwind.
Flog the jib for a minimum of 35 seconds during each tack (45 seconds in winds over 20 knots).
When handing the jib, make sure it drags in the water and removes all visible barnacles.
Snag the jib on the anchor and maintain tension indefinitely.
Hoist the main off wind and insure the battens are caught in the standing rig, then continue to hoist.
Always fold sails on a concrete driveway (blacktop is a reasonable second choice).
Avoid folding sails. Instead crumble and stuff them into the smallest sail bags you can find.
When necessary, walk on the sails (street shoes only).

If you do the exact opposite of everything listed above you will be moving in the right direction.

Second, discard your sail covers immediately. You should never cover or bag sails. Exposing them to the sun for extended periods, particularly during summer, allows UV radiation to soften the material, making it much easier to handle. Unfortunately UV damage cannot be fully accomplished in a single sailing season, but you can get a good start. Good results take dedication but once you succeed, you'll be amazed at how easy sail handling becomes. One downside is that you may have to repeat UV degradation each time you buy new sails (and this will be often). But when you think back on the aggravation of furling stiff new sails and covering them with tight fitting covers, you'll be glad you took time to do the job right.

If you do the exact opposite of everything listed above you will be moving in the right direction.

Third, never wash your sails. To wash sails correctly they must actually be removed from the boat, and there are many better things to do during football season. Besides, leaving your sails bent on (and uncovered) during the winter gives your boat a ready-to-go appearance that will be the envy of your friends at the yard.

If you do the exact opposite of everything listed above you will be moving in the right direction.

Now that the fun's over let's get to the point of this diatribe: washing your sails. Avoiding chafe and preventing UV degradation are the basics that most folks have at least heard about, but salt in sails is the "silent killer." If you don't believe me ask your sailmaker the next time you're signing the check for that new sail. Dry salt crystals in sail fabric behave like a million sharp tiny knives, cutting into the material every time the sail moves. Eventually you can just push your finger right through the material, and while much of this is due to UV radiation, salt is a major factor. It's also something one can address, unlike pervasive UV exposure. Some sailors never wash their sails for logistical reasons, and some call in the sailmaker and just sign the check. But if you have (or can borrow) space to wash the sails annually, you will extend their life immeasurably. Yes, it's cold in November up north, and yes, it takes a little time to set up and clean up, but you will not regret the effort.

Basic sail care tools include simple cleaning supplies (right) and sufficient space to wash, rinse, and hang the sail. I like to wash sails on the lawn because this surface will not damage stitching or the material itself. I can then move the sail to the "dryer" without causing additional wear and tear. Be very careful when selecting cleaners. For most purposes regular dish washing detergent is sufficient and will not damage the material. In fact the real cleaning agent in this process is water itself: only water will dissolve the salt and rinse it away. You will also need a large clean brush, and I have found that a standard "push broom" is ideal. Just make sure it's dedicated to sail cleaning only, and not to sweeping the floor of your oil-stained garage.

Now lay out the sail flat on the lawn (above left) and rinse with water. After rinsing the sail for upwards of 55 minutes, do it again for another 55 minutes. Well OK, maybe that's a bit much, but you get the idea. Then actually wash the sail by filling the bucket with soapy water and brushing back and forth with the big broom. You really cannot overdo this, but eventually you'll get bored and cold and want to move on so turn the sail over and repeat the entire rinse and wash process from soaking to brushing. By the way, I never bother with stains on the sails unless there is a very good reason to remove them (oil, adhesives, etc.). Stains are not "slow" underway, and many times the cure is worse than the disease. I have some stains on my sails that go back decades and I cherish them, largely because I cherish the memories of where I got them.

Now that the sail has been thoroughly rinsed and brushed with soapy water, it's time to hang the sail for drying. The best method for drying sails is sailing on them in a gentle northwest breeze, but we cannot wait until next spring to do this so we resort to hanging them. I can usually find three strategic spots for rigging a snatch block (left) and using the sheets themselves to hoist the sail (right). It helps to have just the right amount of breeze if you can arrange it, but realistically this is late fall and we make do. The really important task once the sail is hanging and off the lawn is to continue rinsing with fresh water. Rinse both sides and continue rinsing. This gets the remaining soapy water and salt out of the fabric and really contributes to the life of the sail. We are getting close to the end of the road here, so bear with me.

After the sail has been hanging for 3 or 4 hours (and with any luck not flogging itself to death in the wind), I usually find that the lawn under the sail is itself sufficiently dry to allow dropping the sail and not getting it too wet. I don't worry too much about the errant strand of grass or weed getting tangled up in the sail, because it will disappear to leeward the first time the sail is used. I then take the sail inside and lay it out loosely in the basement for a few days to let it really dry. Next my wife and I fold the sail carefully (above left) while I shout incomprehensible commands and gesture erratically at her. She seems to really enjoy this, and I get that last whiff of the pleasures of command just at the end of the season. Finally I bag the sail and hang it from a hook in the basement where it's dry and cool all winter (above right). Here it rests until called into action in the spring.

This has been a long-winded description and if you're still awake you may want to know that I have several sails that are over 30 years old and still serviceable. I attribute their long life to the sail care described above.

... A Long Winter's Nap ...

2010-11-20T15:14:00.038-05:00

Kerry Deare spends the winter ashore in New Jersey, and that usually means a few months of rough weather and snow. Over the years we have stored the boat both afloat and on land. In the past when storing on land we usually unstepped the mast each season and then by using the mast as a ridge pole and plastic tubing (HDPE irrigation pipe) for support, we covered the boat with a standard canvas tarp. The pros and cons about storing on land with mast stepped could fill many pages and I won't cover that subject. However in recent years with radar and other electronic gear now mounted on the backstay, unstepping the mast in fall and then stepping the mast and rewiring all the electronics in spring is impractical for me. Thus for the last several years we wintered the boat with the mast stepped. Unfortunately devising a good and simple protective cover with this arrangement evolves into a small but challenging engineering project. There have been several wrong turns along the way, but each winter we get closer to where we'd like to be.

The current frame system is based on the boat's small spars and standard flexible HDPE irrigation pipe (photo above). It seems to work well without too much fuss and expense, and it's easily set up and dismantled each year. We use the spinnaker pole as a "ridge" forward of the mast, and the adjustable whisker pole abaft the mast. We then fit the HDPE irrigation pipe at 6 locations using the lifeline stanchions and other parts of the deck to secure each piece loop. When finished, the frame system resembles a Conestoga wagon and usually generates a range of comments form the pros at the boatyard. Yet in the final tally it's both inexpensive and surprisingly sturdy. At our yard we're able to do most of the winterization while afloat, and we usually set up the frame while the boat is in the water to avoid climbing up and down the ladder. Once the boat is hauled and cleaned (photo right), we can fit the cover without much fuss.

For the first several winters using the current frame system we tried to fit standard rectangular plastic tarps around the standing rigging, but after several attempts we concluded that "simple" wasn't necessarily "better" when it comes to boat covers. Finally last winter we made a first pass at tailoring the standard blue plastic tarps to fit around the standing rigging more effectively. After much measuring, guessing, inhaling contact cement fumes, swearing, and zipping through a lifetime supply of expensive and exotic tapes, we obtained a reasonable first approximation that got us through the cold season. Prior to fitting the tailored cover once again this year, we made a few changes based on last year's results to get a better fit. The results are shown in the photos at left and at right above. This project, like most, is ongoing and no doubt there will be changes next time. It appears that building a winter cover follows the usual pattern observed on other boat projects: the third time is the trick.

There are several obvious places where a little tailoring helps to make a better job. Around the port and starboard shrouds it is usually difficult to both keep the weather out, and get a decent fit. Therefore we added heavily reinforced cuts port and starboard that can be laced around the shrouds (photo at left). The forward cover containing these slits is also cut to fit around the mast as well as around the headstay, and then secured by lacing. The reason for lacing instead of taping is that if the tape is sufficiently good to last during the winter, there is no simple method to remove the tape and at the same time not destroy the cover material itself. In each instance where cutting the tarp was required, we reinforced the area in question with several layers of blue tarp material and used a standard grommet tool to fit the lacing. The after cover is cut to fit around the backstay and the radar mount in a similar fashion.

To reduce wear and tear on the cover during the winter, we fitted a roll-up door on the port side. The door allows easy access for winter work without the need to dismantle a part of the cover itself. Last fall prior to fitting the cover for the first time, we carefully measured for the door. While actually building the cover and fitting the door at home, we decided it just didn't look right and made some changes "on the fly." Of course it happened that the original measurements were indeed correct and my "eyeball" modifications were not. Prior to installing the cover again this winter we "uncorrected" to get back to where we should have been in the first place. The benefit is that it's much easier to get the old man's bones up the ladder and onto the boat now.

The nice part about the present system is that going down to the boatyard for a few hours work is really much less bother. The side door makes going on board less complex, and the dark color of the cover itself provides something akin to a "greenhouse" effect, making the area under the cover quite comfortable once the sun has been up for a few hours. The frame ridge poles and tubing are sufficiently high so that there's plenty of room to work on deck without gymnastics during the winter.

Home Stretch: 10 - 13 Sep - Long Island Sound Is ... Long

2010-09-13T15:41:00.056-04:00

I reluctantly slipped the lines at Mystic Seaport Museum Friday morning, 10 September, and caught the ebb down the Mystic River to Long Island Sound. Nina elected to savor the Seaport for a few more days but we wanted to make miles west and enjoyed a fair tide through western Fishers Island Sound (chart right) in bright sunshine and perfect visibility. An unwelcome chop at the mouth of the Thames River reminded me that the journey was not over yet and the wind, predicted to be 5 to 10 NW, held steady at about 15 NW and then began to creep upward.

I'd intended to make the Thimble Islands this day but by 1230, still some 14 NM short of the goal and with the wind gusting NW at 25, I'd had enough. I altered course to the NW aiming for Duck Island Roads (chart at left). In this wind the anchorage near the right-angled jetties would not be safe (if it ever is), but I hoped to find shelter under the lee of the mainland in the northwest part of the small bay just east of Kelsey Point. I dropped the anchor at 1245 (in N41-16-077/W72-29-219) as the clear and gusty NW wind continued at about 25 knots. The holding was excellent but a roll was making its way around the Kelsey Breakwater and the anchorage, although snug under the circumstances, was not comfortable.

About 2 hours later it seemed the wind had gone off a bit so I decided to try once again for the Thimbles and flat water. This time I was beaten back before even making it around the breakwater. However I was able to find smoother water about 0.9 NM from my original spot in N41-15-468/W72-30-114 (the reason I've included coordinates is to demonstrate the effects that even a slight change in position can have on comfort). Here the anchorage was an order of magnitude better and I decided to spend the rest of the day right where I was. The wind by this time had convinced many other boats to call it a day and the bay was almost getting crowded. For reasons I never did discover, several boats anchored in the "vee" created by the Duck Island Roads breakwaters despite the fact that they were facing into a strong NW breeze with the breakwaters forming a dangerous lee shore close behind. This made no sense to me and still doesn't but as they say, "different ships, different long splices."

We got underway at 0550 the next morning, Saturday the 11th of September. The dawn broke cool and clear with NW winds at 8 to 10 knots and smooth seas. The goal this time was Cockenoe Harbor in the Norwalk Islands off the Connecticut south shore (photo right). I'd anchored there in 1996 in a friend's Cal 2-46 and I recalled a fairly comfortable spot with a great view, plenty of privacy, but a mildly tricky entrance into the harbor among rocks and shoals. The ride itself was somewhat bumpy across the entrance to New Haven Harbor but it settled down off Bridgeport and since it was Saturday the local "fleet" was tuning up for the races. The contrast of sailors playing in the sun and the fact that this was the 9th anniversary of Nine/Eleven was not lost on me. We anchored in Cockenoe Harbor just before 1400 and despite the SE breeze that stayed with us during the night and the mild roll it generated, the anchorage was satisfactory. I didn't say "comfortable," but "satisfactory" will do in a pinch.

The next day, Sunday, was a big one when it came to making miles. The SE breeze of the previous evening had filled in during the night and by dawn we were staring into 20 to 25 SE in the anchorage with fairly large rollers making across the Long Island Sound. We hauled anchor at 0635 and made our way out into the Sound, soon settling on a course of 250 M for the Throggs Neck (photo left). This put the breeze on the port quarter and with 1.5 to 2 knots of fair tide, the 110% Genoa set, and the diesel just kicking over, we were moving well. I'd planned to stop at Port Washington until I noticed that the current at Hell Gate went favorable at 1330. My calculations indicated we would reach the Throggs Neck at 1200 or so, and that meant that if we kept going we would make the Gate just about when the tide went favorable. That's exactly what happened.

A mile or so past the Throggs Neck Bridge I noticed a smart looking large cutter coming up on us and doing so in a determined fashion. As she approached I recognized the yacht Brendan's Isle (photo right) owned by Mike and Kay Arms (http://www.myronarms.com/), old friends from the Sassafras River on Chesapeake Bay. I hadn't seen Mike in many years and thought it rather a nice surprise that we were both transiting the East River at the same time. Mike and Kay were returning from a summer of cruising the Maine coast. What made the coincidence noteworthy was that Mike is a well known author who has written extensively about the areas I had been exploring all summer, particularly Newfoundland. We were able to catch up a bit on comings and goings of mutual old friends until he continued on out of sight down the East River.

Soon we too were passing through Hell Gate and down the East River. As we ran between the Battery and Governor's Island, a combination of haze, light rain, and fog obscured the Statue of Liberty and made for a dicey crossing of the Upper Bay amid ferry and commercial traffic, but by 1500 we'd anchored safely behind the Statue just west of Liberty Island. As darkness fell visibility improved and we were treated to a magnificent view of the Statue and Lower Manhattan. The anchorage itself was surprisingly flat and quiet, and we enjoyed a peaceful Sunday evening rest in preparation for an early start down the New Jersey Coast.

By 0430 Monday morning we were underway down harbor toward the Verrazano Narrows Bridge (photo right). The night was clear, visibility was excellent, and we enjoyed a huge fair tide down bay. Yet paradoxically there was just too much to see. The AIS was showing well over 100 targets of all shapes and sizes, and the direct path to the Narrows was filled with anchored commercial vessels, moving ferry boats, tugs with and without barges, and difficult-to-see aids to navigation. The radar also showed so many targets that it was difficult if not impossible to process all the information. Once clear of the Liberty Island entrance channel I immediately turned left and headed for the Brooklyn shore and the relative safety of Buttermilk Channel. I continued down harbor on the Brooklyn side and there encountered "only" four commercial vessels until finally passing under the Verrazano Bridge into the Lower Bay. From there it was only a matter of following the buoys and waiting for the relative security of the sunrise and the visibility that would come with it. My advice to all is that if possible, do not pass through the main channel in New York Harbor in darkness, regardless of your experience level or equipment.

The rest of the day passed uneventfully. We enjoyed a fair tide all the way down the New Jersey coast and entered Manasquan Inlet at 1100, passed through a turbulent Point Pleasant Canal with a fair tide shortly thereafter, and tied up in our old boat yard at 1400. The Newfoundland adventure had exceeded my expectations, but I was not at all unhappy to finally step ashore.

Mystical Coincidence: 06 - 08 Sep - Close Encounters of the Seafaring Kind

2010-09-08T12:20:00.029-04:00

Arion and Kerry Deare finally got underway Monday morning, 06 September, from New Bedford after the remnants of Hurricane Earl were well to the east. We started early and decided to take advantage of conditions and aim for Stonington CT, some 58 NM west and the same number of miles closer to home. The ride was uneventful as we motored along, passing successively the Sakonnet River, Newport RI, and Point Judith Harbor of Refuge. Then suddenly ahead I spied a familiar shape on the horizon, a vessel unlikely to be mistaken for any other. It was the scow schooner Nina (photo left) out of Baltimore sailing west just off the Rhode Island shore, with Captain Dayton and First Mate Ingrid on board. Nina was designed by Joel White and built in 1985 in Brooklin ME, but her chronological age is no measure of how well she reflects ageless seafaring traditions. She is sailed using methods and procedures that would pass muster aboard any 19th century coastal vessel.

I have known both Ingrid and Dayton (photo right) for several years and Nina has spent a considerable amount of time in the same New Jersey boatyard where Kerry Deare winters, so the coincidence of unexpectedly encountering her at sea is noteworthy. At the same time the encounter serves to remind me that coincidences like this become commonplace after one has spent a bit of time afloat. There is no need to embroider sea stories: reality does the work for you. The Nina was bound for Mystic CT, just west of Stonington, and we agreed to stay in contact to determine how we might rendezvous and catch up on doings.

Arion and Kerry Deare passed a quiet night together in Stonington, if indeed the harbor at Stonington is ever really quiet. There are at least 2 reasons Stonington never rests. First, it's a major yachting center and yachts of all sizes and pedigrees are constantly coming and going. Second, the harbor itself is at the mercy of the prevailing southwest winds and the motion never ceases, especially when the wind pipes up each afternoon. So next morning when Susan and Kirk decided to continue west to meet commitments at home, I decided to join up with Nina at nearby Mystic Seaport to catch up on old times and also to enjoy a quiet harbor setting.

Nina and Mystic Seaport Museum make a perfect couple. The Seaport is dedicated to preserving and honoring the seafaring traditions of the nineteenth century, and Nina herself perfectly exemplifies these traditions. While I was making arrangements for our visit I only half-jokingly suggested to Donna, Mystic's Assistant Dockmaster, that the Seaport should be paying Nina to visit rather than the other way around. As it turned out, we did indeed get a pretty sweet deal, but more about that later (Ingrid and Dayton checking in at the Mystic Seaport Dockmaster's Office, photo right).

Shortly after arriving we changed into our Tourist First Class garb and explored the Seaport (photo left). There is much to see and learn at the Seaport's 19 acre site and we didn't intend to waste time. I was particularly struck by the expansion of Mystic's facilities and exhibits since my last visit about 25 years ago. The number of classic vessels maintained by the Seaport has increased dramatically (a New England sharpie, photo upper right), and an entire 19th century maritime village now exists (photo lower left)where one can investigate the commercial and technical activities that kept the various maritime business enterprises running. There is also a wide array of exhibits designed specifically for children that permits interactive learning experiences. Facilities for visiting yachts are much more elaborate and include improved dockage, showers and restrooms, a Visiting Yachtsmen's Lounge, etc. The photo at lower right shows Nina at rest at the Seaport.

The Seaport staff conducts daily demonstrations that explain in detail procedures and techniques that kept commercial vessels of the period running. We participated in hauling yards aloft (photo left), barrel making (cooperage), knot tying, and so on. There are complete facilities for all types of ship building and repair (photo right), and during our visit we toured the whaling ship Charles W. Morgan to observe her undergoing a complete refit, a procedure that will take many years to complete.

Ingrid is herself a talented musician and we were able to meet and hear many of the Seaport's own musicians perform period music. Sailors of the period had little free time, but when they did get to relax they made the most of it playing music, practicing the sailors' arts (net making, photo lower left), and keeping up communications with their families back home.

It is safe to say that the music and demonstrations were well enjoyed by all present, including Ingrid (photo right) and the many visitors who enjoyed the daily Dog Watch music sessions held on the main deck of the Charles W. Morgan (photo below).

Too soon was the visit over, but not before the staff did us the very large favor of allowing us to stay 3 nights while charging only for one, and that at the members rate. The staff could not have been more pleasant, and I suspect that a part of their largess was due to the presence of Nina and her crew, who provided as much inspiration to them as they did to us. And for those doubters out there who think Hollywood is only a fantasy, there really is a "Mystic Pizza."

At New Bedford: 01 - 04 Sep - Hurricane Warnings

2010-09-04T08:06:00.072-04:00

New Bedford is itself an almost perfect natural harbor. It is large, deep, and well protected with easy access and a convenient central location. Since the 1960's when the massive hurricane gate system was added, it has become known as one of the most secure major harbors on the US East Coast. Among mariners it is axiomatic that New Bedford is the safest location in the area to seek refuge during bad weather. For these reasons and others, I made a special effort to arrive at New Bedford Harbor with time to spare in order to guarantee a secure berth.

The harbor (right photo) consists of New Bedford on the west bank of the Acushnet River, and Fairhaven on the east. Most commercial fishing activity is centered on the New Bedford waterfront, and the fishing fleet is definitely one to reckon with (photo below left). New Bedford may have the largest concentration of active fishing vessels in the world. Even if that is not the case, it seems so to a casual observer. There is an endless array of wharves and piers crowded with rugged and fierce looking fishing vessels of all shapes and sizes, mostly massive. Fairhaven on the opposite side of the Acushnet River also has its share of commercial vessels in addition to several large marine repair and service operations. Sprinkled among these commercial facilities are many businesses designed to serve recreational vessels, the heaviest concentration being on and around Pope's Island in the middle of the harbor. It's safe to say that if a vessel operator cannot get the job done here, it simply cannot be done.

While underway from Shelburne to New Bedford, I'd contacted friends Susan and Kirk ("Captain Kirk" at left) who have been cruising their yacht Arion along the US Northeast Coast this summer. I was both surprised and pleased to learn that they were then in nearby Cuttyhunk Harbor and they agreed to rendezvous with Kerry Deare in New Bedford and wait out the weather behind the secure hurricane gates. The plan was that Arion would secure to a mooring, Kerry Deare would secure at the Fairhaven Shipyard, and after preparing the boats for nasty weather we ourselves would spend Friday evening (03 September) safely tucked away in a hotel room ashore in New Bedford. This also meant we would have time to enjoy the sights, tastes, and sounds of New Bedford, the "Whaling City."

Thursday, 02 September, was filled with storm preparations and general maintenance on both yachts. Meanwhile the harbor was quickly filling with vessels of all types and sizes, and we were pleased to see among them the State of Delaware tall ship Kalmar Nyckel (http://www.kalmarnyckel.org/). She was nestled safely among the fishing fleet in a secure berth. Since my wife Sonia is a "Blue Hen" (i.e., University of Delaware graduate), I paid special attention to this vessel.

By the time we'd finished hurricane preparations late in the afternoon our appetites required immediate attention. The solution was Antonio's, a Portuguese restaurant in New Bedford that had the nod from everyone we asked. Both the service and the food lived up to expectations. We all spent one final night afloat and by Friday afternoon we'd moved ashore to a nearby hotel and were ready to explore New Bedford (at left, Susan and Kirk in "Tourist Mode"). The obvious first stop was the New Bedford Whaling Museum, the city's most popular attraction (right photo).

In our view the museum is a gem, particularly in light of its relatively small size. Architecturally and aesthetically, the designers just seemed to "get it right." There is something for everyone here, including a model of the famous Concordia yawl (photo left), a design well known to sailors and built nearby. The main hall of the museum (right photo) features several rare whale skeletons and an industrial style that somehow seemed perfect. By the way, if your taste runs to whale skeletons, this just might be the place (below).

By the next morning, Saturday, Hurricane Earl had passed through without major impact (we are pleased to note). I was struck once again by the apparent disappointment of several commentators who opined that the hurricane was "not all it could have been." I do not at all understand what these morons are talking about. Would they perhaps be satisfied with a few dozen yachts strewn along the beach, or maybe 17 senior citizens stranded and drowned on Nantucket? In any event while Kirk attended to details aboard Arion, Susan and I continued to collect Tourist Points in New Bedford. This we accomplished with a self-guided walking tour that lasted over 5 hours, beginning with a visit dockside to the Kalmar Nyckel (photo right).

Prior to the storm's passing the crew had secured all gear, sails, and equipment. Now that it was time to get back underway, those preparations had to be reversed, and on a vessel like this with miles of lines and cordage, this is no small task. All hands were put to work to get the job done (left photo). Susan did her part from the sidelines (photo upper right) by encouraging the crew to work harder and faster. She might have made a pretty good whaling captain in the day, and apparently others thought so also because in short order she and I were interviewed by a local radio reporter seeking our opinions on how things should be handled properly aboard ship (photo lower right). Of course we provided definitive answers to all his questions on whaling ship management, local restaurants, global warming, world hunger, tying a flying bowline knot, and a range of other vital issues.

Then it was off to the New Bedford visitors centers for an injection of Tourist Info. There are 2 centers in town. Located on the waterfront, the New Bedford Visitors Centers provides information on water-related activities, tours, the waterfront itself, the commercial fishing activities that dominate the immediate area, and so on. When we visited we spoke with Rihjui, a friendly and helpful park official from Ghana (photo left), who loaded us up with useful information. Thusly armed we proceed into the restored part of New Bedford and immediately encountered two women dressed in period costume (right photo) who immediately brought us up to date on the latest New Bedford gossip. Latest that is, if you consider the year 1836 recent. These two remained strictly in character despite my attempts to break the spell. And a magic spell it was for both Susan and me.

We continued our walking tour into the restored sections of New Bedford, enjoying some of the more stately buildings as we went along. Our goal was the collection of stately residences centered on New Bedford's County Street, the location that many of the town's whaling and business elite had chosen for their elaborate homes. The jewel of this collection, the Rotch-Jones-Duff House and Garden Museum, is discussed separately below. What struck both Susan and me about this collection of homes was the sheer number of fully restored masterpieces available to view. Even though we spent nearly 2 full hours walking on, in and around County Street, we barely scraped the surface. There is much available online about these buildings so I will post only a few selected photos. The choices are not easy.

*****

The Rotch-Jones-Duff House (photos left, right, and below) is the only County Street mansion open to the public. Susan had decided well in advance that it was a must-see item and she was quite correct. The mansion was built in 1834 for the whaling merchant William Rotch, Jr. It is in Greek Revival style and is often described as the best example of the "brave houses and flowery gardens" described by Herman Melville in Moby-Dick. The museum chronicles 150 years in the economic and social evolution of the city as reflected in the residencies of 3 succeeding families, the Rotch, Jones, and Duff families. Photography is forbidden inside the building, so we can show only a few views of the gardens and the exterior of the building. When Susan and I discussed the tour afterwards, we both agreed that it was a "Triumph of Modern Nautical Tourism." We hope you agree.

To New Bedford MA: 28 - 31 Aug - Stateside Again

2010-08-31T13:14:00.008-04:00

We departed Shelburne Harbor 0830 Saturday, 28 August, bound for Provincetown MA. According to the chart this was to be a 260 NM leg. We'd been pinned down in Shelburne by a series of offshore depressions and tropical cyclones since 22 August and it was beginning to seem that we'd shortly be granted Canadian citizenship by default. We finally identified a window of several days with fair or light winds that allowed passage to P-Town, so off we went.

Jean and Josiane on Kurika were directly ahead of Kerry Deare as we both motored the 10 or so miles down harbor to the Atlantic Ocean. My final view of these close friends was as Kurika passed the Cape Roseway lighthouse on McNutts Island, heading to sea (photo left). They were headed to Portland ME and all my efforts to lure them to the MA coast had been unsuccessful. It seemed I would not again have the pleasure of their company.

The first obstacle one encounters when sailing west on this route is Cape Sable. The Cape has a reputation for turbulent waters, particularly when the 2 to 4 knot current there is opposed to the wind. All the cruising guides and pilot books recommend that mariners stay well offshore in this area and I planned to do just that. I'd rounded this cape several times in the past without issue, but of course there's a first time for everything and this was that time. Despite a forecast of light winds and calm seas, the NW wind came up with authority at 1300, attaining a speed of 25 to 30 knots. Ahead I could just make out Kurika under all plain sail smashing to weather and doing well. Little Kerry Deare however had other ideas and in short order we were hove to under double-reefed main with the helm down, leisurely waiting for the wind to pipe down. The old man just didn't want to bounce all that much. We got underway again at about 1700 (now using EDT).

A short time later I spoke the 154 foot schooner Meteor bound for Maine (photo at left by Kirk on Arion). I wanted to inform her captain that his AIS signal was broadcasting his destination as Lunenburg, Nova Scotia, which was obviously incorrect based on his course and speed. This is one of several instances on this cruise when transmitted AIS data did not correspond to a vessel's actual intentions. Meteor's skipper said he would investigate.

We continued motor sailing into light airs on relatively calm seas for the next 38 hours without incident or interruption, shutting down occassionally to check fluids, transfer fuel, and check systems. Then, while resting below about 60 NM east of the tip of Cape Cod, I was startled to learn we had a passenger. A small bird, possibly a sparrow, had landed on Kerry Deare for a rest and was flying around the main cabin (photo at right). During the visit the bird made a point of checking out the accommodation below decks several times and left his personal calling card on the cabin sole. Since I didn't want to tempt fate, the mess remained in place until we were securely moored at our final destination. After an hour or so he decided he didn't like sailing all that much and flew off.

After 55 hours underway I finally picked up the signature of Cape Cod on the 16 mile radar range. An hour later I was able to make cell phone contact with my wife Sonia and let her know we were getting close to home, and it was during this call that she gave me the latest weather advisory on offshore tropical cyclones. We'd been out of radio contact for a few days this was very important information that helped shape our course of action for the rest of this leg.

The situation wasn't pretty. There were at least 2 and possibly 3 tropical systems offshore (Earl, Fiona and Gaston) that gave every evidence of heading in our direction, so finding a safe refuge was the next step. Although I'd been off soundings for well over two days and had planned a rest stop in Provincetown, I decided to continue on through the night, transit the Cape Cod Canal when the current went favorable at 0200 local, and head directly for New Bedford MA, one of the most secure harbors on the US East Coast. This decision added 40 or so NM to the leg, for a total of roughly 300 NM from Shelburfne to New Bedford via the Canal.

I entered the Canal at almost exactly 0200 31 August, a Tuesday morning, about 64 hours out from Shelburne. As predicted the tide was just going favorable and we were soon riding the current and making 7 to 8 knots over the bottom. The Canal at night is a mysterious and quiet place and I used the full array of electronics to keep Kerry Deare lined up down the middle of the route. Fortunately there was no commercial traffic to worry us, and we exited the Canal at 0330 into Buzzards Bay. We were greeted by a light northerly, a perfect breeze to sail for New Bedford. That we promptly did, finally shutting down the diesel after far too many hours of constant running. Things were looking up.

At 0730 we passed through the famous gates that guard New Bedford and Fairhaven from hurricanes and tropical systems. We were secured alongside at Fairhaven Shipyard at 0800, 31 August, almost exactly 3 days out of Shelburne. After a long and uneventful passage and safe arrival stateside, a welcome rest for both Kerry Deare and me was in store.

At Shelburne: 27 Aug - On The Waterfront

2010-08-27T15:54:00.017-04:00

We are still in Shelburne waiting for the weather to sort itself out. The complex mixture of cyclones and depressions offshore still has not allowed us to begin moving toward Provincetown MA.

This morning I took the dinghy out along the Shelburne waterfront to capture a few final photos of this charming town. It may be quite some time before we have the good fortune to return. Click on a photo to enlarge the view.

At Shelburne: 25 Aug - Kerry and Paul

2010-08-25T23:00:00.006-04:00

We are lying Shelburne and waiting weather for our return to the US. Yesterday we interviewed several candidates for the position of Figurehead Second Class (FSC). On ships the "figurehead" is located right at the bow just under the bowsprit (technically, at the "stem head"). From this position he or she has a clear view of the dangers ahead. Obviously this is an important job.

From the start one candidate stood out from the crowd. Young Kerry Arcon, son of local boat builder Charlie Arcon and his wife Kim, was head and shoulders above the other candidates. We knew this immediately after watching this brave lad survive a bicycle wipe out in front of his home. He faced the consequences with courage and honor (Kerry's mom Kim supplies medical aid to the wounded bicyclist at left).

Kerry's performance during sea trials was not without complications. While we were tooling around Shelburne Harbor during the interview process and getting to know one another, the spray from the waves gave him second thoughts about the job and he asked if the position of Cabin Boy was stll open. Unfortunately the minimum term for a new FSC is 3 years and FSC Kerry still has 2 years, 364 days, 23 hours, and 45 minutes left to serve before he can even be considered for promotion. To ease the disappointment, FSC Kerry was awarded an extra portion of ship's rations (photo right) and given afternoon liberty.

This morning I visited the shop (photo left) of local boat builder and designer Paul, a Shelburne resident who until recently lived in British Columbia. Paul specializes in wooden boats with a traditional flavor and it was a pleasure to watch him at work (photo right). Although many modern materials are used in the process of producing a wooden boat, the basic steps of design and construction are not far removed from the methods shipbuilders developed hundreds of years ago.

The Cruising Life: 24 Aug - Questions For Cruisers

2010-08-24T05:29:00.009-04:00

I am no longer cruising full time. There, I've said it.

Yet there was a time when I numbered myself among the degenerate masses, aimlessly wandering the seas and oceans (not quite sure about the distinction, mind you). We had our code and we lived by it. We rarely allowed outsiders inside, and tolerated them only when personal gain seemed probable. For one thing, "they" kept asking questions we couldn't answer, or didn't want to contemplate. Here are some of the deal breakers.

Question One: How long does it take to get from ... to ... ?

Wrong Answer: 3 days, 7 hours, and 24 minutes.

Right Answer: There is no right answer. Cruisers get somewhere and realize that Doris and Fred on Bottomscraper are there. This means they're in a good spot and it's time to start the party. It really doesn't matter that everyone has another 1200 miles to the planned destination. The concept of "right now" is much more important that the idea of "destination." Besides it takes forever to get to the "destination," and I'm not even going to get into the part about tacking and light winds and that sort of thing. After all, it's now now and I have important stuff to do. Now.

Question Two: When you sail to Bermuda, do you anchor each night?

Wrong Answer: Only if we are making a souffle for dinner.

Right Answer: Listen, idiot, and I'm only gonna tell you one time. If you buy the 6 miles of anchor rode and pull it up each morning, it's a deal.

Queston Three: How much does this boat cost?

Wrong Answer: $63, 500.

Right Answer: $24, 700, two good jobs, 1.6 marriages, 8 tuition payments, and one's sense of humor.

Question Four: Do you really live in Wilmington, Delaware?

Wrong Answer: Well, my accountant told me ... (on and on for 15 to 20 minutes).

Right Answer: Yes.

Question Five: How many does it sleep?

Wrong Answer: The sales brochure says eight adults and two cats.

Right Answer: This boat sleeps 2, feeds 8, drinks 12, and tolerates essentially no one. so get the &*%$#! outta here now.

Shelburne Redux: 20 - 22 Aug - Where Did Nova Scotia Go?

2010-08-22T11:13:00.013-04:00

We arrived at Shelburne Harbor Yacht Club this morning at 0800, Sunday, direct from Canso (Shelburne waterfront at left). The trip began 1000 last Friday and required two nights at sea. There isn't much one can say about the trip itself. When we saw a "weather window" that allowed us to make miles west, we jumped on it. Our reward was the last night at sea. Though windless, the night was a beautiful combination of calm winds and seas, a full moon, and time to reflect on this wonderful cruise and the many people who made it so.

When eastbound to Newfoundland this past July, we sailed direct to Canso from Shelburne. Canso is at the eastern end of Nova Scotia, and Shelburne is at the western end, so this means we bypassed all the harbors along the Nova Scotia coast to gain time for Newfoundland. Having visited Newfoundland (albeit all too briefly) we returned west to Shelburne direct from Canso, again bypassing the attractions of this beautiful province (Kurika westbound to Shelburne at right). In effect, although we've visited Nova Scotia this summer, at the same time we ignored most of Nova Scotia. This contradiction is a natural result of the "voyaging" mentality needed to accomplish cruising objectives with a small yacht, and this discipline is the basic ingredient for "making miles."

Now we are preparing to return to the US. It's about 260 NM from Shelburne to Provincetown MA, and departure will depend entirely on the availability of another weather window with favorable winds and conditions. As I write this entry, the weather picture is a bit uncertain. A deep low pressure system is making its way up the US East Coast over the next few days and the ocean will remain unsettled until at least Friday or Saturday. The North Atlantic under such conditions is no place for a small yacht. Stay tuned and we will keep you posted.

St. Peters and Canso: 18 - 19 Aug - You "CAN-SO" Go Home Again

2010-08-19T14:27:00.012-04:00

We are in full "homeward bound" mode and the last 2 travel days exemplify what that means. We departed Baddeck (leaving Baddeck Harbor at left), the northern extremity of the Bras d'Or Lakes cruising area, Wednesday morning and arrived at St. Peters Canal and Lock (right), the southern extremity, by 1500 that afternoon, a distance of 30 NM. The Bras d'Or Lakes are considered by some to be one of the finest cruising grounds in North America. In our case we treated the Lakes as merely an obstacle between where we are, and where we want to be. Instead of the weeks many boats spend cruising the Lakes, we passed through in 6 hours.

St. Peters Canal and Lock separate the Lakes from the Atlantic Ocean. This is a delightful stop on the route and is one of the prime provisioning areas for boats cruising the Lakes. It's also quite pretty (photo below) and we enjoyed our brief stay. Early this morning the calm waters allowed me to capture Kurika (left) and Kerry Deare (right) totally at rest on the Canal.

Later this morning we departed St. Peters Canal for Canso, a 20 mile hop, arriving just after 1200. This afternoon while Jean and Josiane explore Grassy Island, I will take a close look at the offshore weather to determine the next step.

Baddeck, Cape Breton: 17 Aug - All That Glitters ...

2010-08-17T23:00:00.016-04:00

For the first time on this cruise, I have encountered a destination that simply does not live up to expectations. Although Baddeck is the logical center of yachting activity in the Bras d'Or Lakes, it functions largely as a tourist magnet drawing visitors arriving by automobile and tour bus (photo left). This doesn't mean Baddeck lacks the facilities and amenities that allow it to claim being a first class yachting center. What Baddeck lacks is authentic charm.

We stayed alongside at Baddeck Marine just west of the Town Wharf, and the service and facilities were more than satisfactory. However as I was walking through the village, I had to force myself to use the camera. There simply were no photographic subjects that compelled me to shoot pictures. There are indeed one or two attractive churches (photo right), offset by many tourist-oriented restaurants. There is a multitude of tourist gift shops filled with identical "junk" imported directly from China and stamped "Baddeck." Indeed there is no unifying characteristic that pulls Baddeck together.

The biggest tourist disappointment was the Alexander Graham Bell Museum, an agglomeration of every conceivable detail related to this man's life and considerable achievement, but at the same time an almost unmanageable array of minutiae that would put even a Bell enthusiast to sleep. And a good sound sleep it would be. However the Bras d'Or Lakes Interpretive Center (photo left) was both an interesting exhibit on local ecology and the nature and characteristics of the Lakes, as well as well staffed facility whose representatives were able to answer all the questions we posed. The Lake system is a marvel and it deserves the care and attention is seems to be getting.

I am glad I finally visited Baddeck, "the goal of many a cruising man" as they say in all the stuffy New England cruising guides. However I won't fret long about leaving.

To Baddeck on the Bras d'Or: 16 Aug - Still Waters Indeed Run Deep

2010-08-16T16:00:00.004-04:00

All good things must end and unfortunately so must our Newfoundland visit. We departed Ship Cove on Ramea at 0730 local on Sunday 15 August, bound for Baddeck on Cape Breton's Bras d'Or Lakes. Conditions were tame, with calm winds and seas, bright sunshine, and unlimited visibility. The distance of 164 NM meant we would spend a single night at sea and arrive Baddeck late Monday afternoon. That's exactly what occurred.

Although I hoisted the mainsail for technical reasons, we never encountered any wind while crossing Cabot Straight. Only rarely have I seen such calm waters (photo left). The diesel ran well for the entire 32 hours of the passage. The way we usually handle situations like this is to shut the diesel down every 12 hours to allow checks of fluid levels, connections, possible leaks, make fuel transfers, etc. This we did twice, and in each case all went well. That's fortunate, because without a breath of wind, an engine malfunction would have meant sitting out at sea for a very long time.

In calm conditions the routine at sea is a bit unusual. Regular "housekeeping" of a type not possible in rougher waters can be attempted. One does not have to hold on for 24 hours a day, and projects requiring two hands and some dexterity are possible. One of these is planning future aspects of the cruise, sorting charts, getting computer records up to date, and the like (photo right).

A sunset at sea is always something to behold, and I will admit that I could have done it more justice with a few camera adjustments. For those who have not enjoyed such an event, feast your eyes (photo left). Once the sun has disappeared, the remaining light plays tricks with the horizon and offers up visual treats simply not available on land (photo right).

Finally when it is dark and the skies are clear, it is never really dark because the starlight is sufficient to allow surprising colors and images (photo above).

We entered the Great Bras d'Or channel at about 1030 local time (Atlantic Daylight Time) and were officially on the island of Cape Breton, itself a part of Nova Scotia. Since we were still in Canadian waters and had never left them, there was no requirement to contact the authorities and we simply proceeded toward Baddeck, about 25 miles further on. We reached Baddeck at 1530 and after a bit of dock socializing decided it was time for some real rest. After all, the great Bras d'Or Lakes adventure was about to begin.

Ramea Day Four: 14 Aug - Local Music and Authentic Flavor

2010-08-14T22:00:00.022-04:00

We were able to stay at Ramea for only 2 of the 3 days of music at the Rock Island Music Festival (http://www.explorenewfoundlandandlabrador.com/communities/ramea.htm), but that was enough time to prove that the islands are filled with musical talent. The musicians ranged from the local heating oil delivery man who played his Fender Stratocaster bass to perfection, to a retired fishermen who "wailed" on a mean button accordion, to a Nashville "session" musician whose original music hit at the heart of the out-port experience. What these musicians had in common was talent and the desire to create and present music based on their own experiences, history, and values. This they did at a very high level.

I had several favorites among the many players. Stan MacDonald (photo left) has been making music in Ramea and elsewhere in Newfoundland for many years. He was kind enough to dedicate several of his popular songs to a few of the visiting sailors in the audience. Stan was accompanied by banjoist and sailor Jim Shaw (photo right). Jim and wife Judie spend part of the summer on Ramea, and we were able to compare sailing experiences and well as musical tastes.

Craig Young is another musician I met on the wharf just prior to the festival. Craig was born in nearby Grey River and has worked in Nashville and many other places in the US. He is well known and appreciated throughout Newfoundland. It was a pleasure to watch Craig work and to listen to his original songs describing life and family in and near Ramea and Grey River. Like most musicians at the festival, Craig was accompanied by close friends and family members on stage.

Another special favorite was Roland Skinner, whose music included some of the older traditional ballads of the British Isles as well as music specific to this part of Newfoundland. In addition to being a talented and capable musician, Roland also found time to fill Kerry Deare's larder with fresh moose steaks from the hills of Newfoundland. "Yummy" just doesn't cover it. Thanks, Roland.

Don't think for a minute that this kind of music is comprised entirely of staid front porch ballads sung by retired postal workers. Once these musicians get going, there is no way for the audience to sit still. They just get out on the floor and "do it."

Ramea Day Three: 13 Aug - Lucky "Friday the 13th"

2010-08-13T10:00:00.005-04:00

Friday August 13th was first of 3 consecutive days of music at Ramea's Rock Island Music Festival, and I was looking forward to the performances. To get in the swing of things I decided to do an early morning walking tour of the island. Many residents had suggested it was the only way to truly learn about the island. The Ramea Heritage Center provides a hand-drawn map with many points of interest, but there is little doubt that the (literal) highlight of the walking tour is a climb to the top of Man-of-War Hill. The problem: I hate heights. In fact I'd already told any one within listening distance that I was simply not going up that hill. So much for idle threats.

When I came to the location on the walking tour (photo left) where the sign to Man-of-War Hill is posted, something strange happened and I found myself drawn to the challenge. The next thing I knew I was climbing to the top, despite the fact that this activity is completely alien to me. I am still not sure why I did it, and I'd never do it again. Even the pictures give me vertigo.

Here for your viewing pleasure are views from the top of Man-of-War Hill.

While we're in the mood, here are a few Ramea images that caught my fancy.

m/v Gallipoli: 12 Aug - Island Lifeline

2010-08-12T23:00:00.007-04:00

On Thursday morning I had the good fortune to meet Captain Leslie Cutler (photo left), skipper of the ferry Gallipoli, as he was walking to work from his home on a hill overlooking Ship Cove in the Ramea Islands. He was headed to the ferry wharf to begin another day in command of his vessel (photo right) and to continue the tradition of offering a vital service to communities like Ramea. The ferry system provides a lifeline for isolated out-ports along the Newfoundland South Coast, and it would be difficult to overestimate its importance. Obviously I was quite excited when Captain Les invited me on board to tour the bridge and learn more about Gallipoli (http://www.tw.gov.nl.ca/ferryservices/schedules/l_ramea.html).

The Gallipoli bridge (photo left) features every piece of modern electronic navigational equipment that one would expect, and most of the equipment is backed up by one or more spare instruments. Gallipoli also employs modern "pod" type propulsion units that rotate in all directions. They are controlled by a "joy stick," and this means the vessel can be maneuvered in close quarters in some of the smaller harbors. The ship's navigation station (photo right) contains electronic charting systems and a complete range of paper charts used to record up-to-the-minute positional and navigational data on the vessel and on nearby vessels.

Gallipoli carries up to 100 passengers and is furnished with life rafts capable of supporting the entire passenger manifest plus the officers and men of the vessel. The cargo bay can hold several large vehicles or many smaller vehicles, and all vehicles are backed onto the ferry cargo bay to allow fast unloading at the destination.

It is fair to say that without the services of these ferries, which operate in all seasons and all weathers, life in out-port communities would not be possible.

Ramea Day Two: 12 Aug - Progress and Fun

2010-08-12T17:51:00.017-04:00

The music doesn't start until Friday afternoon (tomorrow) making today an opportunity to get Kerry Deare (left) ready for the return to Nova Scotia. The trip will require additional fuel, full water tanks, a stocked ice box, checks of all gear and equipment, etc. I was able to get quite a bit accomplished in this regard, but the real action was elsewhere.

I decided to take an early morning walk, so coffee cup in hand I headed in the direction of the ferry dock, the lifeline for a community like Ramea. The coastal ferry Gallipoli was tied alongside and I stared at her impressive gear and size. As I was heading back toward the wharf I noticed a sprightly gentleman approaching in uniform and on a whim I asked if he was the ferry captain. Captain Les Cutler (photo left) replied in the affirmative and asked if I would like a tour of the bridge of his vessel. You can guess my answer. The tour was exciting, informative, and elaborate, and is the subject of a separate blog entry posted today (12 Aug). However the highlight of the tour was Captain Cutler himself. A true man of the sea and a gentleman to boot.

In late afternoon I set out in the dinghy to explore the many small islands that comprise the Ramea archipelago. I studied the chart a few minutes before setting off but I was unprepared for the complexity of this area. In fact I am pretty sure I lost my way and at one point I was not sure how to proceed. The best plan was to retrace my steps, and that worked. I'd been told I might see puffins on the islands, but that did not happen. Even without puffins, the exploration was beyond ordinary.

The Ramea Islands: 11 Aug - Ready To Rock (Island)?

2010-08-11T18:00:00.011-04:00

After spending most of Tuesday catching up on boat maintenance and, in the evening, enjoying another hearty dinner with Brey and Mark , Ricky, Craig and Jody, and Celine and Jeremy and Sally and Chiquita (yes, they have a large dining table), I departed at 0550 Wednesday morning for the Ramea Islands, 30 NM west and just a few miles off the Newfoundland South Coast. The winds and seas were calm for the entire trip and I was able to evaluate the engine work of the previous day. All went well, and we arrived in the harbor at Ship Cove on Ramea at 1230 local (photo right).

Along the way I passed several tempting harbors and anchorages (photo left) but passing up a good opportunity is required because time is limited: the cruising clock is always ticking and soon we will be making miles toward New Jersey and home. We must avoid difficult weather, so time management is paramount. With that in mind I chose Ramea for several reasons. First, it's a group of inhabited islands just off the Newfoundland coast, and that itself is unusual. It's also a modern and progressive community and I wanted to meet the residents to learn more. Further, on Ramea I can provision well and be prepared to jump off directly to Nova Scotia if the weather cooperates.

Finally, and here's the real reason, there is a music festival this weekend that I definitely want to attend. It's The Rock Island Music Festival (photo right) and I confess I'm a little excited. In fact I checked out the empty venue in advance just to study the layout (photo left).

So, are you ready to rock (island)?

Francois NL: 09 Aug – Isolated Pleasures

2010-08-09T23:00:00.019-04:00

We were underway from Facheux Bay at first light, 0540 Monday morning, hoping to outfox the southerly winds I expected. The distance to Francois (remember, “france-ways”) is 22 NM directly into the prevailing winds and along this coast, with or without wind, there is a persistent swell that usually means holding on to something the entire way. Such was the case, but we were willing to endure because Francois is a special destination.

One hundred and thirteen people live in this true out-port and the only way in or out is by coastal ferry. Francois, located in a well protected fjord with a boisterous stream running through the village, is the farthest inhabited place from a highway in Atlantic Canada. The setting is dramatic, surrounded by towering rock walls and a unique rock called The Friar (photo below).

Back at sea, we finally settled into the “regime” of Number Three genoa and the Volvo ticking over, and surprisingly we were making nearly 6 knots through the water. In a strange sense the ride seemed almost comfortable, but that may have been because I knew our speed was good. By 1055 local I was tied alongside the fishermen’s float with help from Alex, a young man from François. I settled down the boat and wandered up to the fishing wharf to meet-and-greet and find out about the commotion underway. A catch was being unloaded and weighed (photos left and right), and I was struck by the smooth precision of all concerned. There was no idle chatter and each person knew what had to be done and the best way to do it. Any modern business would benefit from the example set on the wharf.

A short while later I heard a skiff landing at the head of the wharf and I volunteered to take a line. There I met Brey, her husband Mark, friend Rick, and their border collie/german shepherd mix "Chiquita." They hail from near Toronto and have purchased cottages in Francois. These friendly folks have in a the space of two years established close friendships with Francois residents, and that speaks highly of both sides. It wasn’t long before Brey and Mark suggested I join them and their two daughters and the children’s friends for dinner up the “hill.” That was when I remembered the 5 pound fresh trout hiding in Kerry Deare’s icebox.

The result was an expansive dinner (photo right), featuring pasta with hearty sausage and beef, fresh trout, special deserts baked by daughter Celine (at left), and … well, an endless supply of good food and good fun. The evening was memorable but since my day had started at 0200, I soon realized I was tired enough to head for home. A fine day indeed.

To Francois: 08 Aug – Well, Not Quite …

2010-08-08T16:00:00.001-04:00

We departed Harbor Breton 0630 Sunday morning hoping to make Francois (pronounced locally as "france-ways"), 42 NM to the west. Initially we motored into calm winds and seas, but soon the wind came up SW about 10 to 12 and the ride became more interesting. By 0850 I’d rounded Cape Connargie and conditions were rough, so I set the Number Three genoa and continued motor sailing. We didn’t have enough wind to sail to our goal in a reasonable period of time and the angle was a bit sharp, so we made what progress we could. However by 1045 when I passed the final small cape guarding Heritage Bay, it was time to alter plans. With building seas Francois did not look possible, so I fell off to the north to lay Hare Bay, some 18 NM distant. Hare Bay would be the first actual fjord I visited and the scenery was reportedly quite good. The entry was described as easy in all conditions.

By 1200 even Hare Bay looked unlikely so I fell off further to lay Facheux Bay (pronounced locally as "fooo-shee"), some 8 NM distant. Even with the wind on the port quarter (i.e., behind us a bit, for lubbers) the building seas were giving Kerry Deare quite a workout. Estimates are notoriously inaccurate, but I'd say the wind was gusting to the mid-twenties and the occasional sea was 6 to 8 feet. Conditions like these push small boats around like toys.

However the pain was worth the pleasure. We entered Facheux Bay, another fjord, at about 1300 and I was treated to a scene I barely deserved (looking out to sea, left). At 10 miles long, this is the longest fjord in Newfoundland and also the deepest in places (looking ahead up the fjord at right).We anchored in Allan Cove while the wind continued at to boil down from the high surrounding hills and mountains. The pictures speak for themselves. Life is good. We’ll worry about François tomorrow.

At Harbor Breton: 07 Aug – Cold Ice, Hot Soup, Warm Hospitality

2010-08-07T17:00:00.017-04:00

Early Saturday I awoke to the sounds of fishing activity on the docks. All the hustle centered on “icing down” the fishing fleet to prepare for weeks of offshore work. George was the first person I met and minutes later we were off in his car to tour the village and its facilities. George (stowing ice in Trusty's hold, above right) and shipmates Silas and Roderick are crew on the Cape Island boat Trusty, and were preparing her while the skipper was away. Yet George still took time to give me a detailed look at his village, including many homes and large buildings his dad had constructed. It seemed that without George’s dad there would be few new buildings in Harbor Breton. It also seemed that Harbor Breton is growing and prosperous, with new construction, new medical and professional facilities, and a positive feeling.

Back on the dock “icing down” was proceeding on schedule, each boat being loaded with over 20,000 pounds of ice. Ice is trucked to the dock in large bins and poured into the ship’s hold with a chute (photo left). Crew members work to spread the ice into different compartments for different species. It’s physical work and no place for curious visitors so I stayed out of the way, enjoying the view from the bridge on Trusty (below).

While this was going on, Silas provided me with a tin of canned moose from the ship’s provisions. This is moose that he himself hunted and canned, and I am looking forward to a special occasion to enjoy it (are you reading this, Sonia?). Later George showed up at Kerry Deare with a tin of home-canned salmon and a fresh 5 pound trout (more about this special fish in the later entry on Francois). We were fully provisioned by now and when I visited the grocery there wasn’t much needed.

It was approaching lunch time so following Samantha’s earlier suggestion I headed to Sunny Cottage for Pea Soup (photo left). If you are like me you are wondering "why the fuss about pea soup?" For most of us this is a bland and often dreary item on the menu, but that’s not the case in Newfoundland. Pea Soup here is a Saturday specialty that combines special white peas, chunks of beef, a thick hearty broth, and large dumplings, all served in a very large soup bowl with bread and “fixings.” In a phrase, hard to beat (and few can handle seconds).

After lunch I moved the boat over to Elliot’s Wharf (photo left), a marina with additional facilities including a small museum, a playhouse, and an Internet Café. Thanks to the young women working there I did well. Judy and Britany attended to Kerry Deare’s needs and even read some of the musings on these pages (right photo) while I toured the museum to learn about local history and culture (below).

By late afternoon I’d already had a very full day, so an early dinner and early to bed was the choice, preparing for another town and another adventure tomorrow.

To Harbor Breton: 06 Aug – Warm Start, Warm Finish

2010-08-06T23:00:00.015-04:00

Friday 06 Aug was the day to move to Harbor Breton, about 24 NM distant to the NW. Since the distance was short, I spent the early morning preparing for sea and treating myself to a warm breakfast and a hot shower. “Sharon’s Nook" (photo left),” owned by Sharon and husband Jack (at right), is the

source for the latest gossip, a place to meet fishermen and compare notes (center above), and the right location for a Newfoundland breakfast. It was there I purchased a chart of wrecks along the Newfoundland coast, despite the fact that carrying this item on board gives me the jitters.

Next over to the Harbor Supervisor’s office where Levi Matthews tallied my bill ($20 CD for two nights) and even included a hot shower in the price. He probably took mercy on my “drowned-rat” appearance because Philip and Sharon said they’d paid $6 CD each for the pleasure. Levi was more than helpful during this visit, having met Kerry Deare at the wharf, arranged for ice (150 pounds at no charge), and kept me informed of goings and comings that affect the cruise. He furnished much of the Newfoundland hospitality I’d heard about.

At 0950 it was out to Harbor Breton in SE to SW winds that often approached 20 knots. The rain also set in with some determination, but the combination of rain and wind wasn’t troublesome because I stayed below while the yacht ran down under Number Three genoa alone, the diesel just kicking over, the autopilot doing the steering, and the awning keeping the rain at bay. We were warm and dry the entire time although the same cannot be said for anyone above decks (I didn’t hear any footsteps though, and I noticed that Polo, who doesn’t like rain, stayed in his perch and rested). Eventually visibility closed down to zero but not before we passed the Sagona Islands (photo left) close aboard to port.

The approach to Harbor Breton is fairly easy and that was a comfort in zero visibility during our radar entry. It also appeared that the GPS position was very good despite the fact that the GPS does not correspond to printed charts well along this coast. We proceeded at reduced speed and by 1540 were alongside Jensen’s Wharf in zero visibility, pouring rain, and calm winds (photo right). Good to be in port regardless of conditions.

The first thing on tap after settling the ship was to go ashore and wander, and I immediately encountered the biggest local attraction, Sunny Cottage (photo left). This Queen Anne style building is now a museum but was originally the home of a local merchant. My guide Samantha (photo right) provided a lively tour that included the “Resettlement Room (photo below).” This display documents the government-mandated movement of many Newfoundland families from remote out port communities to more centralized locations during the 1960’s and 1970’s. In many cases they moved their homes also, floating them to new locations. Samantha also suggested that I would enjoy the Pea Soup lunch next day at the cottage. She was correct.

Newfoundland: 04 Aug - At Last ...

2010-08-04T23:00:00.046-04:00

After traveling over a month and a half from our home port in New Jersey USA, we finally slipped the lines in Saint-Pierre et Miquelon at 0905 Wednesday and got underway for the Burin Peninsula on the South Coast of Newfoundland. Our goal was Grand Bank, 29 NM distant, and once a site of major fishing activity in the old banks schooners. This was back when the seas were filled with "ships of wood and men of steel."

Good weather was predicted for the crossing and it lived up to its billing when a light southerly was combined with sunshine and abundant visibility. At about 1115 I called the bridge of the overtaking passenger ferry Arethusa which runs from Fortune in Newfoundland over to Saint-Pierre and back, twice daily in the summer months. I asked the captain whether it was possible to clear back from the French islands into Canada at Grand Bank rather than Fortune, the standard port of entry 5 miles south of Grand Bank. My cruising guides preferred Grand Bank harbor and re-clearance was required because my entry into French territory had invalidated my earlier visa. He didn't know the answer but immediately offered to telephone Customs in Fortune who stated that the procedure was allowed. Consequently we proceeded as planned. The captain also mentioned that a week-long festival was underway in Grand Bank, and that I should not miss the dory races that evening. More on this later.

Within a few minutes of this call we had an excellent visual on the southern end of the Burin Peninsula of Newfoundland (photo upper left), my first sighting of the mysterious and powerful looking island. To say I was very excited doesn't describe the situation. Then at 1345 we entered the man-made harbor at Grand Bank (photo upper right). I was content at last because the major goal of this cruise had been achieved: Newfoundland.

Philip and Sharon from CD 36 Evergreen, last seen in Canso, were waving from the wharf (photo right), and it seemed to me that half the townspeople including Harbor Authority Supervisor Levi Matthews were in attendance also. We'd arrived at a classic Newfoundland "out-port" at last (photo above left and right).

After a bit of boat housekeeping and general fussing, I was preparing to enjoy the dory races and it was then that the weather went decidedly south. The wind built and the rains came. The winds and the rain also stayed for dinner, and most of them slept over. However that little impediment did not deter the dory crews, who rowed and raced furiously in pairs (two racing dorys, each with two oarsmen or oarswomen, photo at left). None of the dorys showed much regard for style or technique compared with what I'd seen years earlier in Lunenburg, Nova Scotia. We'd been warned that this competition sometimes resulted in dorys crashing into things, including wharves, moored boats, visiting cruisers, and each other, so we prepared to defend ourselves and our vessels.

This time we were spared the boat-to-boat collisions, but one of the dorys rammed itself into a wharf and remained stuck for 10 minutes. In another instance an oarsman lost both oars overboard and nearly went swimming himself. While all of this was going on, the crowds of locals roared encouragement and endured the drenching rain, even though most had no protection from the downpour. Many were dressed for Bermuda rather than Newfoundland.

Later when I put together the crashes, near drownings, and the soaked fans blissfully rooting for their favorites, I began to think that perhaps there is something to the suggestion that Newfoundlanders really are, well, different. No matter. I was there, finally.

Saint-Pierre et Miquelon: 03 Aug - Ile aux Marins

2010-08-03T23:00:00.003-04:00

Of the 3 small islands lying immediately off Saint-Pierre Harbor, Ile aux Marins is the largest and provides Saint-Pierre with a certain amount of protection from sea and wind. This island was the site of the original community, chosen because it was a little closer to the fishing grounds. With many of its original buildings restored, the island is now a museum with most buildings including the old church open for viewing. On Tuesday afternoon we visited with the dinghy and enjoyed an afternoon of visual bliss.

Saint-Pierre et Miquelon: 02 Aug - The Grande Tour

2010-08-02T23:00:00.033-04:00

Monday dawned, as we knew it would, and it wasn't long before the day's work was underway: Shopping and Touring (upper case required). We began with Josiane's fine French breakfast on Kurika (photo left) highlighted by pastries and fresh breads courtesy of Kerry Deare. Next off to the Tourist Info Office for help with certain particulars. Finally we visited (1) the Post Office for commemoratives, (2) a craft shop for each boat's requisite SPM flag (photo right), (3) several post card shops, (4) a number of small specialty grocery shops, and (5)at least for me, the major event: mandatory jewelry shopping.

Due to an unlucky encounter with the calender, I'd departed on this cruise just over a month prior to Sonia's and my 12th wedding anniversary. When we were together in Boston a week or so later during late June and early July, we'd made up for this unforgivable lapse on my part to a certain extent. Yet it seemed to me that more could and should be done. In Saint-Pierre, I found out both where to do the make up work, and how to do it properly. Although I located the necessary items on my own, there is no question that Josiane's help on matters of style was invaluable. The shop that came to my rescue is a family-run affair and they could not have been more helpful (photo left).

Monday afternoon we were picked up at the club by a new friend of Jean and Josiane who had earlier promised a motor tour of the island. Fabrice (at the left in photo at right with two of his many cousins out for a run, and Jean and Josiane) was born on Saint-Pierre, married on Saint-Pierre, and has a 12 year old son born on Saint-Pierre also. He still owns a home here, but he is currently living in Saint-Martin and only gets home for holiday. His holiday soon became ours also.

Considering that Saint-Pierre is 4.5 miles north to south, it may seem surprising that Fabrice spent over 4 hours showing it to us. This he did in remarkable detail, with interesting and subtle descriptions of every facet of island life. Most of the discussion was in French and I struggled with many of the fine points, but one could not miss the visual splendor that characterizes Saint-Pierre. I will simply post photos and let the pictures talk.

Saint-Pierre et Miquelon: 01 Aug - A First Tast of France

2010-08-01T23:00:00.021-04:00

The first thing any sane sailor (oxymoron?) learns is Shore Leave. It took Josiane and I under 7 minutes to get ready and we were off to the races. The goal was a quick Sunday morning "Case the Joint" that included the immediate waterfront (far left), the shopping areas with their well-defined yellow Tourist Footprints showing the way, locations for Tourist Info, the Post Office, bakeries (many), and so on (upper right). Since Sunday is a day of rest in this predominantly Roman Catholic city, very few establishments were actually open, but we knew that our work would prove its worth the following (shopping) day. It did.

Our walk was also a fine way to work off the sea legs I'd reluctantly acquired en route from Louisbourg, and with Josiane along we had a chance to meet a few Saint-Pierre residents (left). The language here is Parisian French but most residents speak English well and are willing to do so without hesitation. However Josiane can get things done in Parisian French, and that is the way to go. I suspect Montreal French would not work as well, but that's merely a guess. Thus was the stage set for Monday's "Tourist Extravaganza and Shopping Marathon."

To Saint-Pierre: 30 Jul to 01 Aug - Restful But ...

2010-08-01T08:00:00.012-04:00

After staring at 25 to 30 knot winds and waiting almost a week at Louisbourg to cross to Saint-Pierre and eventually Newfoundland, we finally headed to sea 1230 on Friday, 30 July, to learn that nature was in a playful mood. Visibility was under 100 yards and we could barely make Louisbourg Light (this time to port) as we passed and headed east. The wind was a restful 4 to 6 knots from any of several directions, and we rolled along in a mild leftover swell. It looked to be a long 172 NM ahead.

Just to keep things lively, at 1600 and still in thick fog I picked up the AIS signature of MSC Tuscany, a 650 foot cargo vessel bound for South America. It appeared he would pass me from left to right at a closest distance (CPA) of 1 NM. However in thick fog it never hurts to check, so I called the bridge by name and confirmed my radar signature and ID with the accented officer of the watch. He assured me he would maintain course and speed and I told him I would do the same. That's how things stood until, 15 minutes later, I noticed on both radar and AIS that he had started a slow turn to his right that would bring us into collision. This pleased me very little so I called the bridge again and listened as the watch officer parroted back to me each sentence I said to him. I was not sure that he understood any of the English words he was saying in his heavy Middle Eastern accent, but this was no time for Berlitz. Against standard procedure, I came left about 30 degrees and juiced up the diesel to avoid trouble. About 5 minutes later I made him in thick fog as his scarred and somewhat rusted hull passed from left to right less than one eighth mile ahead. Shortly thereafter we were back on 090 M heading for Saint-Pierre.

By 1930 Friday evening we were able to go sailing in 8 to 10 knot winds. This lasted until 2330 when the wind quit and the diesel came back to life. These conditions, with heavy fog and no wind, continued through the night and into the next morning until 1645 Saturday when we were once again sailing. The next few hours of sailing were all we would get on this leg. Speaking of burning diesel, shall we drill, baby, drill?

At 1855 Saturday evening (now in Saint-Pierre time, 2 hours later than New York), the log states that we had under 50 NM to the yacht club in Saint-Pierre. The controlling factor was that I didn't want to arrive in darkness and outside official customs and immigration hours, so we slowed to enter a little after 0800. This was to be, after all, our first visit to French soil and we hoped to maintain diplomatic protocol and further warm international relations. A 2210 log entry states that we had officially entered French territory.

We continued along in darkness and what passed for visibility but on approach to the islands visibility went to zero. Just below Langlade (Petit Miquelon on the charts but the locals scoff at that name), we were working under radar and AIS and I picked up one small target on my right while heading NE between Langlade and Saint-Pierre. He did not come up on VHF and passed safely, so he was probably a small fishing skiff. By Sunday morning at 0640 the genoa was handed and we had what I believed was a visual landfall on Saint-Pierre photos right and above left). This was confirmed when the fog dissipated ever so slightly. By then we also had daylight and things were looking good, so I prepared documentation and mooring gear for arrival.

We proceeded into Saint-Pierre harbor (photo above) enjoying the view and the first taste of human habitation in a few days. By 0745 local we were safely tied on Kurika (photo left) with Jean and Josiane on board, last seen in Louisbourg, who themselves occupied a berth at Saint-Pierre Yacht Club (Club Nautique, photo right). Customs arrived almost immediately and the officials were, well, very French: elegant, handsome, pleasant, charming, and informative.

What a bore.

Louisbourg V: Fri 30 Jul – "La(z)y Days" or "Lay Daze"?

2010-07-30T07:31:00.013-04:00

The next leg on this cruise is a 2 day offshore jaunt to Saint-Pierre et Miquelon, small French islands off the Newfoundland coast, and we leave this afternoon to arrive Sunday morning. The weather these last few days has offered up winds of 25 to 30 knots, rain squalls, and big seas, so we’ve been sitting and waiting. The “we” includes Jean and Josiane on Kurika and even a few RVers in the motor home park. Kurika is an Amel 46 ketch, massive compared to Kerry Deare, and even experienced sailor Jean who’s crossed many oceans was sitting this one out.

So what does one do to fill the time? The short answer is quite a bit. For starters there’s always an opportunity to waste hours at the computer (photo upper left). What did we do prior to becoming online slaves? And then there’s a sailor’s favorite: shopping.

Wednesday morning looked like just another maintenance day when Josiane announced that Sid and wife Dorene in a motor home would be driving to Sydney, the largest city on Cape Breton, for shopping and had offered the three of us a ride. Naturally we jumped at the opportunity (photo middle left). Jean and Josiane hadn’t done major provisioning since leaving the Caribbean over 2 months ago, and I was eager to avoid boat chores. The 5 of us fit comfortably in Sid’s large pickup and were shortly standing before the Wal-Mart in Sydney River (photo right). It was “just like home,” including the distasteful feeling some get from the Wal-Mart “experience.” Yet there’s no question we shopped and enjoyed doing so (photo left).

Thursday evening Kerry Deare hosted Jean and Josiane for wine and cheese (photo right), a dangerous undertaking considering that I had on board only the basics for entertaining, and my guests would be Parisian world travelers. We conducted a tasting of 2 California chardonnays and the verdict was: “Acceptable or Better.” The visit seemed to work to the satisfaction of all including my crew teddy bear Polo, who finally got the attention he deserves (photo left).

Louisbourg IV: Thur 29 Jul – Staying Put

2010-07-29T06:57:00.025-04:00

On Tuesday afternoon I stuck my nose out into the ocean hoping I'd find conditions I could live with en route to Saint-Pierre et Miquelon, a 175 NM trek requiring 2 nights at sea for Kerry Deare. After 2 hours of 26 to 28 knot winds with gusts into the thirties, it was clear this wasn't our day so we returned to harbor. Thus the entire process of securing gear, preparing for sea, heading out, bouncing a bit, returning to the wharf, resetting lines and fenders, and getting exhausted resulted only in turning the boat around 180 degrees at the wharf (photo left). Still life on board is one long learning process, so lets' talk about wharfing.

Cruising in Nova Scotia and Newfoundland means visiting harbors where fishing is the primary activity. Facilities for fishing vessels are designed for rough usage and extreme conditions so yachts must use care to avoid damage. The most important gear needed is fendering that can do the job. At the very least one needs the largest fenders that can be carried and stowed, and preferably more than two. In the photo at right we've set two 10x30 fenders behind an 8 foot fender board to lay alongside the rough wharf. Note that the wharf here in Lousibourg is not "rough" as these things go. We carry another 2 large fenders and often another board to meet worse conditions. The the photo also shows rubber protectors on the ends of the board to further protect the topsides.

In Louisbourg the tidal range is about 6 feet so some compensation is necessary. This means keeping an eye on things through at least one tidal cycle, and adjusting lines and fenders to meet the extremes of the tidal rise and fall. The two primary rules we like to employ in a case like this are (1) use lines as long as practical to minimize tidal effects (photo above left), and (2) make all lines adjustable from the boat (top and bottom photos at right).

Finally never assume that your gear will be "just fine for now" when it comes to chafe. The insidious effects of chafe can be disastrous, and the forces against you are at work every minute of every day. There is no substitute for taking measures ahead of time (photo at left).

Louisbourg III: Tues 27 Jul – Still Here, But …

2010-07-27T08:22:00.020-04:00

We intended to depart yesterday afternoon for Saint-Pierre et Miquelon, the small French islands off Newfoundland’s South Coast, a distance of some 172 NM. Although “GRIB” weather maps promised favorable conditions and fair winds, those winds could have gone to 30 knots according to Newfoundland fisherman Hank, so we decided to wait. We are comfortable and there are purchases and repairs we can do in Louisbourg so the delay is no hardship. The delay also offered up new cruising friends.

Monday afternoon the French ketch “Kurika” (at left in the left photo) entered Louisbourg harbor with Jean and Josiane on board (photo below at right). Hank and I helped them secure alongside a fishing boat and Jean immediately broke out the wine glasses. He and Josiane had just sailed coastwise from Shelburne NS en route to Saint-Pierre. Since we are also headed there, perhaps having French speaking friends nearby could keep us out of trouble. In addition Jean and Josiane are delights in their own right. They have sailed “Kurika” over from Brittany and completed passages along the US East Coast via Bermuda, so we traded tales on places along the way, especially Bermuda. As we spoke I remembered spying “Kurika” in Shelburne at the yacht club floats but we didn’t meet there, so a warm welcome to Jean and Josiane.

While walking up to the “Command Center” this morning I met a lovely 80 year old Dutch woman exercising her German shepherd on the boardwalk She has been living in Louisbourg almost 60 years and could not praise it enough. She was so enjoying the morning that some of her energy must have transferred to me. It will come in handy when we depart this afternoon.

Louisbourg II: Sun 25 Jul - Fortress of Louisbourg and J.P.

2010-07-25T23:00:00.011-04:00

TOURISM IN THE DAYTIME

The quintessential Louisbourg tourist experience is a visit to Fortress of Louisbourg, a national historic site of Canada. The purpose of the fortress and its surrounding grounds is to provide the visitor the experience of living for a single day in the year 1744.

The fortress was originally a fortified French town that was twice captured by the British, the French having first arrived in 1713. Various French kings including Louis XV built the fortress to protect France's commercial interests against the British. The current replica fortress represents a massive investment by the government of Canada over decades. It is one of the premier tourist destinations in the country.

Each summer costumed interpreters paint a picture of life as lived in 1744. The sights and sounds of the 18th century come alive in period homes, busy street scenes, and theme centers.

TOURISM AT NIGHT

A short walk from the wharf leads to the Louisbourg Playhouse, a replica of Shakespeare's Globe Theater (http://www.louisbourgplayhouse.com/), where on Sunday evening I treated myself to a performance by one of Cape Breton's premier musicians and entertainers, J. P. Cormier (http://www.jp-cormier.com/).

To say he knocked me over is to understate his impact, his instrumental technique, and his stage presence. A great performance in a stellar location.

Louisbourg I: Sat 24 Jul - Louisbourg Town

2010-07-24T23:00:00.027-04:00

We departed Canso at 2030 Friday 23 July and had an uneventful overnight sail in light and fair winds to Louisbourg on Cape Breton Island, some 60 NM to the NE. Upon arrival at Louisbourg I was treated to views of Louisbourg Light (left), the oldest lighthouse in Nova Scotia and second oldest in North America after Boston Light.

On the way over I had a gear failure when the mainsheet block parted from the traveler slide. At first I though this repair would be difficult but that was not the case thanks to Hank (below center), a Newfoundland fisherman who greeted me on the wharf.

Hank works on the Amanda J, a Cape Island crab boat (right) based in Louisbourg during crabbing season. In short order we fashioned a few of Kerry Deare's spares into a serviceable fitting that is stronger than the original. Yet the real story here is Hank himself, whose generosity came across immediately. If this is Newfoundland (and I believe it is), then what are we waiting for? It wasn't long before Kerry Deare was "iced down" with 150 pounds of "chip ice" from the fish plant. This is a good thing.

Speaking of boats and wharves, I noticed a slight disconnect between the rules as written, and the rules as practiced. At left is the wharf where I found a place to tie in. You can see Kerry Deare's mast on the left side of the wharf. It is otherwise filled with commercial fishing vessels and there does not appear to be space for another boat. If you look closely at the left photo you can just make out a small sign at left. In the right photo this sign is enlarged and specifies that the wharf is for recreational boats only. Hmmmm.

Hank stopped by later Saturday evening and I was able to offer a cold drink and learn more about him and Newfoundland. His father and grandfather were fishermen and Hank himself has been fishing over 40 years. In preparing for this cruise I'd acquired a Newfoundland "Native" flag (left) mentioned in a cruising guide, and I asked Hank about it. He had no idea what I was talking about but was interested to read about it in the guide. Warning: Don't believe everything you read in the cruising guides.

Louisbourg Town epitomizes the Cape Breton experience. About 1000 Nova Scotians live here in down-to-earth fashion, and after only 2 days I'd met half of them personally, and been greeted heartily by the other half. The main street features small businesses aimed at the tourist trade generated by Fortress Louisbourg (a separate blog entry), and is lined with quaint and interesting homes and buildings. In contrast the waterfront is all business, with fishing boats coming and going at all hours (left above) and the local avian population standing by to help when necessary (below).

The remainder of Saturday was spent at the "Command Center" (photo at left) overlooking the wharves and the Louisbourg Motorhome RV Park located right on the waterfront. I was preparing for an Olympic Class Tourist Day on Sunday, and in Louisbourg this can mean only 2 things: Fortress Louisbourg, and the amazing J.P.

Canso Town: Tues 23 Jul - History Comes Alive

2010-07-23T11:08:00.033-04:00

Canso (left) is a town of superlatives but despite this it is not well known to people "from away." It is the oldest continuously inhabited town in Nova Scotia, dating officially from 1604 and there was probably some sort of European fishery here 200 years earlier. Canso's history predates not only Halifax, but also the famous settlements of Port Royal NS and Jamestown VA USA. Much of Canso's local history is on view at the Grassy Island Interpretive Center (right photo). Canso is also the closest unfrozen corner of the North American mainland to Europe. Historical Note/Tounge-In-Cheek Department: There appears to be no connection between Canso's unfrozen character, and the fact that during the American Revolution Captain John Paul Jones burned the town to the ground.

Grassy Island (left photo) is the site of the original settlement at Canso. The island itself can be visited with the local Parks Canada boat. My tour presented by Tom and Clarice of Parks Canada was both historically and visually interesting, and the weather cooperated in fine fashion. The displays on the island are the result of archaeological "digs" that have uncovered much historical detail (right photo).

When I arrived at Canso friends Philip and Sharon introduced me to Sheila and Chris and their extended family. Sheila was born in Canso and kindly provided us with the "deluxe" tour one afternoon (photo right). We visited the Interpretive Center, the Whitman Museum, the house where Sheila was born (Sheila and her birthplace in the background at left), and managed a quick and delicious ice cream treat.

Later everyone gathered at Sheila's brother Berkeley's "shed" for food, drink and festivities (photo at right). Not a bad day at all.

Canso NS: Thur 22 Jul - Cruisin' vs. Schmoozin'

2010-07-22T23:00:00.016-04:00

Earlier I provided an overview of two prominent and respected organizations within the sailing community whose influence exceeds what one would expect based on membership numbers alone (see http://yachtkerrydeare.blogspot.com/2010/06/schmoozing-club-of-america.html). These are the CCA or Cruising Club of America, and the SCA or Schmoozing Club of America. I am founder and the sole member of the SCA. Unfortunately I haven't yet encountered other humans worthy of membership. The CCA has less stringent standards and the story I now relate may hold clues about why this seems the case.

Friends Philip and Sharon on CD 36 Evergreen departed Canso NS Tuesday 21 July for Cape Breton while I remained behind another day to resolve maintenance issues. On Wednesday afternoon single-hander Jim arrived on his 28 foot sailboat sporting a CCA burgee at the masthead. As he entered the slip next to Kerry Deare he remarked: "Another CCA member!" Evidently he failed to distinguish the distinctly different color schemes of his CCA burgee and our SCA burgee (photo at left). I was forced to point out the error of his ways: we are definitely not a CCA boat.

Jim is a pleasant Brit reared just east of London who has lived for decades on nearby Prince Edward Island (PEI). He was in the process of returning home from Halifax where no doubt he'd spent time with other CCA members at the Royal Nova Scotia Yacht Squadron on Halifax's Northwest Arm. We were there once briefly in Kerry Deare and found the surroundings beautiful but intolerably stuffy. We rapidly moved "Up The Arm" to the the Armdale YC. Jim and I chatted briefly but had little chance to get to know one another much beyond the standard pleasantries. Following the incident I'm about to relate, I spent more time with Jim and discovered that he is an accomplished sailor who has sailed trans-Atlantic in his earlier 24 foot vessel. He is also currently editor of the CCA publication "A Cruising Guide to the Gulf of St Lawrence." It is fair to say that Jim has extensive offshore experience and is a dedicated and capable sailor with the skills such achievement demands.

Early next morning the weather held no appeal so I decided to spend the day touring Canso's attractions. Jim for his part decided to head out for PEI and home. I helped him depart and wandered up to the marina shed to chat with Don and Mike, both connected with the marina operation. It was just then that a Mayday call came in over the VHF, and the three of us were stunned to realize it was from Jim who'd just left harbor. He had run his vessel upon a ledge known locally as Whitman Rock and he viewed his situation as sufficientgly dire to require a Mayday call. As we listened in silence we heard the local Coast Guard in conference with a nearby commercial fisherman discuss methods and procedures for Jim's rescue. Subsequently Jim was towed in to the commercial wharf in Canso.

After what seemed an appropriate interval I walked down to the commercial wharf to check on Jim and help bring the yacht back to the marina so he could decompress and rest (in the photo at right, I'm below). Although there was damage below the waterline, the yacht was still seaworthy and Jim would soon proceed on his cruise. Since his departure I often relive that morning realizing that the worst can, and probably at some time will, happen to the best of us.

Shelburne to Canso NS: 18 – 20 Jul – Enough Wind, Quite Sufficient Fog

2010-07-20T12:00:00.048-04:00

We departed Shelburne Harbor, Nova Scotia 0730 Sunday, 18 Jul 10, in calm and sunny conditions. The 12 NM motorboat ride down harbor to sea was peaceful and I was again able to admire Sandy Point Lighthouse where a day earlier I’d attended a community breakfast with friends from Shelburne (left photo). Everyone brought along all the children and the breakfast was bountiful, the children loud and merry, the view magnificent. Afterwards from the deck of the community center the adults watched the children play in the shallow water, splashing and chasing sea creatures (right photo).

Once at sea we motorsailed east in a light SW breeze. Visibility was excellent as we “enjoyed” the perpetual swells that define this coast. Even in calm conditions, the long swells of the Atlantic that roll in from thousands of miles away produce long rolling hills of water along the SW coast. There is no escape and the swells do not add to one’s comfort. By 1040 we were sailing and shortly thereafter the wind filled in so that I reefed the mainsail and didn’t bother to set a headsail. The wind was almost directly from behind and we were making over 5 knots so for comfort’s sake I chose the simplest solution and sailed “bare headed.” We had about 250 NM to Canso at the extreme eastern end of Nova Scotia, and we were making miles in the right direction.

Conditions remained the same until 1600 when the wind came up to 15 to 20 knots SW. I tucked a second reef and continued with only the main. There was little to do but rest as my system once again got accustomed to rolling seas and life offshore, this time for only a few days. By 2100 I'd made no changes in our setup and nature continued with steady conditions and a good sailing breeze. We sailed on in darkness and by 0500 the next morning, Monday, it was still dark as we began passing the “Traffic Control Lanes” that govern maritime shipping into Halifax Harbor. The Halifax TCL is an elaborate array of one-way traffic lanes into and out of this major harbor and all commercial traffic must comply. The operation is managed by “Halifax Traffic” who do a rather spectacular job. I contacted Halifax Traffic on VHF to identify myself and to check on traffic. There were only 2 commercial vessels inbound at the time and neither was close by.

By 0830 the wind was off and we were motorsailing with the mainsail and the Volvo diesel doing their respective jobs. A little after noon I reckoned that we had under 100 NM to Canso and a rest from the endless swells. Two hours later the wind filled in and we were sailing with a single reef and the windvane steerer. I remember thinking that the motion was a bit less and that probably this was the smoothest set of conditions I would encounter until Canso Harbor. That wasn’t quite the case as I relate below, but I was thankful for the comfort. By 2200 Monday evening the logbook shows us motorsailing again with under 55 NM to go. It was dark and on this last night at sea we'd had good luck and made progress, so I was hoping our streak would continue.

An hour and a half later I became aware of a commercial ship one and a half NM dead ahead on a direct approach to our position. I identified him by AIS (Automatic Identification System) as the Maersk Pembroke, bound for Halifax. When I hailed on VHF he came up immediately and informed me he’d already begun a slow turn to starboard (i.e., he was turning right) to avoid us. I informed him we would also go right 25 degrees to widen the passing distance and we soon passed safely, coming within 1000 yards at closest approach. That may seem like a reasonable distance, but at sea it’s closer than one might like. The whole event, played out on my computer screen, resembled a nautical ballet in slow motion. With the situation now in hand, I sat back and enjoyed the view.

On into the night and Tuesday morning, the wind never did reappear enough to go sailing, but as first light came up at 0530 something else did: dense fog. Ordinarily fog is just another aspect of sailing in this area, but this time it had more importance. To enter Canso we had to negotiate Andrew Passage, a complicated route between islands, rocks, and shoals that protect the entrance to Canso Harbor. I'd never visited Canso before and all my guide books warned that the passage was to be avoided in poor visibility. I kept studying the guides and making offerings to Neptune, but the thick fog persisted and now seemed a permanent feature. Visibility was under 50 yards so I began to make arrangements for either an alternate route into harbor, or a brief stop somewhere to wait on the weather. I prepared the anchor to let go quickly and continued on to Andrew Passage. Fortunately the wind remained light and I encountered no traffic on radar or AIS. As the buoys ghosted by in the fog, I could hear the gongs and bells but saw nothing.

At 0900 after passing the first buoy marking the entrance to Andrew Passage, I came on deck to a find that visibility had become unlimited. A light west wind had combined with the landmass of the surrounding islands to completely lift the fog. We could see, and what we saw was magnificent (photo at left). The bleak scraggy landscape looked like paradise to me. We were in the easternmost part of Nova Scotia, sailing along in a remote and peaceful setting with completely flat seas. I decided to slow things down and enjoy the scene in slow motion. The engine was shut down, the sails shortened further, and we glided through Andrew Passage between the shoals and rocks as if we’d been doing this sort of thing since birth.

By 1015 Tuesday we’d passed the Canso Harbor (right photo) breakwater and secured the ship. I was trying to determine the arrangements at the Canso Harbor Marina when the VHF came alive: “Kerry Deare, Kerry Deare, this is Evergreen. Welcome to Canso.” It was friends Philip and Sharon (left photo) whom I’d last seen a few days earlier in Shelburne. They’d left Shelburne a day before me and arrived about a half day earlier in Canso. I could not have had a warmer welcome.

Shelburne NS: Founders' Days 2010 Photos

2010-07-18T23:00:00.035-04:00

Founders' Days is an annual celebration of the rich history, heritage, culture and people who have made the Shelburne area one of the most interesting places in Canada. For several days each year the historic waterfront comes alive with fun, food, history, music, and games. You will hear music by the ton and witness many re-enactment scenes.

In 1783 more than 10,000 settlers loyal to the British crown arrived in shelburne after fleeing the consequences of the American Revolutionary War. These "Loyalists" including Black Loyalists, Black Pioneers, and some slaves helped lay out and build the town and made the settlement one of the largest communities in North America.

Music in many traditions is found and enjoyed during the festivities. Most of the performers are amateurs who just really enjoy "doing it" and have been "doing it" for decades.

My friend Charlie and his son Rory relax and enjoy the music, each in his own way.

Shelburne longboats played an important role in early local history.

Off Government Point NS: Thur 15 Jul - Gone Fishin'

2010-07-15T20:00:00.013-04:00

Ed hails from Connecticut and keeps his 28 foot fishing boat here in Shelburne. Early this afternoon he asked if I'd join him and John, who's originally from Yarmouth, on a fishing trip out to Government Point just at the mouth of Shelburne Harbor. The answer should be obvious. Here are a few shots of that trip.

Shelburne and Pubnico NS: Families Valued

2010-07-15T05:17:00.024-04:00

This week (July 12 - 16) there is time and opportunity to catch up with old and important friends here in Nova Scotia. Immediately upon arrival in Shelburne I contacted Charlie and Kim and their children Rory (15 years), Tatum (11 years), and Kerry (8 years). Charlie is a boat builder I first met during a 1993 ICW cruise. We caught up with each other again in the Bahamas, and 6 years later in 1999, while Kerry Deare was tied to the Shelburne town dock, I was stunned to overhear someone walk down the dock and introduce himself to others nearby as: "Hello, I'm Charlie Arcon." I thought: "Gee, than name sounds familiar." Since then I've visited Shelburne and Charlie and Kim several times, watching the children and their parents grow into a spectacular family ensemble. The left photo above shows Rory and younger brother Kerry in "baseball mode"; on the right with the rabbit ears Kim is rehearsing for Founders' Day celebrations in Shelburne.

Tuesday evening and Wednesday I visited with Albert and Myrna, and Brad and Peg, in the Pubnicos, Acadian villages near Yarmouth on the Fundy shore. Albert and his relatives were the first people we met when we came for the first time to Nova Scotia in 1989. They have been valuable friends since.

Albert (above left, "gourmeting" creamed lobster) is retired from teaching and was a beloved teacher, a description that would surely have him climbing the walls. Nonetheless it's accurate. Myrna (above right, checking for late developments on the grand kid picture front) is still involved in ship building and at the same time is a busy grandmother of two. It's almost impossible for me to accept these developments, having known this family since they were mere "yearlings," but ...

Among his many other accomplishments, Albert's lifelong friend Brad builds his own airplanes (yes, plural, one of them at left) when he is not building airplane hangars, starting, managing, and successfully selling a wind power electrical generation company, helping tend to 6 grandchildren, sustaining a high level career in education, and putting up with visitors like me. An amazing fellow (Brad in foreground in right photo, detailing his new seaplane).

To Shelburne Town NS: Sat 10 Jun - Dark, Damp, Friendly, Finally

2010-07-10T23:00:00.008-04:00

We approached the entrance to Shelburne Harbor in thick damp fog and brisk southerly winds near midnight Friday. Off Cape Negro I picked up an outbound radar target who identified himself as fishing vessel Nanook and advised that there was no other outbound traffic between our positions and Shelburne Town, approximately 20 miles farther up. Three hours later at 0315, proceeding slowly under double-reefed main and slow diesel power in zero visibility with the wind astern at 15 to 18 knots, I encountered additional radar targets near McNutts Island to port. I was unable to raise the largest of these, who was probably f/v Nanook, busily engaged. The remaining "targets" also did not respond to VHF calls, but this was probably because they were in fact fishing buoys marking aquaculture gear, as I shortly discovered with our high intensity searchlight.

The main was handed off Sandy Point at 0400 and I noticed that we were gradually sailing out of the fog as we moved inland. This was a welcome sight after several days of no visibility, but it was still quite dark and a close watch was kept on nearby objects, moving or not. I called Canadian Coast Guard on my new international cell phone for clearance instructions, and they provided a telephone number for calling Customs directly. I decided to hold off on the call until we were secure further up harbor. This we soon were, picking up a mooring off the Shelburne Harbor Yacht Club (photo at left) at 0510 Atlantic Standard Time. We'd arrived safe and sound, but tired and damp, somewhat pleased with the boat's performance. However based on the "rules of sailing," the fun was just beginning.

After reviewing my information and confirming details of earlier visits to the Province by Kerry Deare, Customs decided that a physical vessel inspection was a good idea. This meant I'd have to go alongside at SHYC (photo at right) for boarding. I did so at 0630 and waited for Customs' scheduled arrival at 0900. Meanwhile the wind, previously docile, veered into the WSW and began to build. This meant that Kerry Deare, initially quite comfortable on the float, became pinned by the increasing winds. As the winds built into the twenties things were getting awkward. and by 0930 when Customs had still not arrived, the wind had arrived and was gusting to the low thirties. Since I did not have the option to move away from danger on the float, I spent this period of my remaining life contemplating the forthcoming tragic ending to an otherwise fine passage. We were going to die by sinking, next to a dock within sight of a safe haven, because (you guessed it) the captain must go down with the ship. I couldn't remember the exact phrasing but it went something like that.

However catastrophe was not on the agenda. Customs arrived and delivered a professional and friendly performance. I next enlisted about 10 club members who man-handled Kerry Deare off the float so I could return to a heavy and secure mooring in the harbor, clean up somewhat, and row in to visit my old friends Charlie and Kim Arcon and their 3 children, all of whom live in a historic house on the Sheburne waterfront. Our loud and chaotic reunion (photo at left) after an 8 year hiatus was exactly what I needed to feel welcomed back to this magic place in this wonderful part of the world.

Approaching Cape Sable: 09 Jul - Fog and More Fog, Still Sailing

2010-07-09T23:00:00.015-04:00

Friday dawned (I'm almost sure there was one but it was not at all visible) with good sailing conditions but little opportunity to observe them first hand. We were finally captives of the legendary Canadian Maritime weather: a cold damp fog had lodged itself somewhere in our bone marrow and was setting up camp. The 0910 log entry reads: "Fog all day since first light, vis ~ 100 yds at best."

Still we were holding the desired course and speed. All that was missing was a hot meal, so I conjured up the "Six Egg Non-Omelet" solution. This breakfast was my first hot meal since leaving Hull. While I'd been eating enough to stave off anorexia, I hadn't been able to settle into a seagoing routine for the first day and a half or so. It's always this way offshore initially so I endure. Now I was past that stage and into the routine.

By 0945 we'd sailed 200 NM from Hull and had 80 NM remaining to Shelburne, with the log proclaiming we were "making good time." Visibility was essentially zero so with little else to do I shifted into culinary mode and started cooking anything within reach. The day's run at 1330 was equal to Day One - another 110 NM. However we'd now sailed into calm winds and seas and continued on with the Volvo just ticking over. Shortly we were back sailing once again. This cycle was repeated several times.

It's often true that sailing saves the best surprises for last few miles, and this leg was no exception. At 1630 while approaching Cape Sable, the southwest tip of Nova Scotia, we found ourselves doing battle with an opposing current (sailors call it a "head tide") of more than 2.5 knots. This meant no matter how well we sailed, we could make only slow forward progress. There is really no solution to this issue on a leg of this length. One soldiers on. The consoling factor was that we had plenty of time to kill and slowing down would help avoid too early a landfall. Daylight often means safety, even if one can't see it. Then the weather gods showed their hole cards and we discovered we'd been dealt rain squalls and gusty conditions. We got a taste of everything except good visibility. The radar showed multiple targets who did not come up on VHF, probably because they were fishermen working their nets and traps. Then on radar I picked up the RACON on Cape Sable light. This "signature" indicated with absolute authority that we really did know where we were, or more importantly where we weren't.

Just before midnight I handed the Genoa and engaged the Volvo. The wind was directly astern so I used the double-reefed main and a bit of engine to keep us going in the right direction. The reason for this tactic was that strong tide rips around Cape Sable produce a bumpy and dangerous ride and there wasn't sufficient wind to rely entirely on the sails and still avoid difficulty. We tried several combinations of sail trim, engine speed, wind angle, etc., and bounced along until finally we reached smoother water off Cape Negro near the mouth of Shelburne Harbor.

We were now officially in Nova Scotia waters and quite close to our goal as we began our last day offshore.

Gulf of Maine: 08 Jul - Another Day of Good Fortune

2010-07-08T22:00:00.006-04:00

We passed the darkness without incident, still "enduring" ideal conditions. The seas seemed smoother this second day at sea although there were many changes from one, to two, to no reefs as we proceeded. By 0830 we had daylight and 203 NM to Shelburne. A half hour later in light airs we resumed motorsailing into smooth seas for the next few hours, and at 1330 we passed 24 hours at sea with a day's run of 110 NM. Not too shabby for so little (apparent) effort.

By early afternoon we were once again reefed down for comfort and making progress, passing the halfway point of the leg at about 1950. During the entire day we "spoke" only a single AIS target, a large cargo vessel anchored in the middle of the Gulf of Maine for reasons not entirely apparent. AIS is an electronic system that allows ships to broadcast positional and other information to nearby vessels for safey purposes. It complements radar and in some cases provides information not available from either radar or GPS alone.

Our time offshore was so far characterized by excellent visibility, but this would soon change as we approached the Canadian Maritimes and colder water.

Gulf of Maine: 07 Jul - A Light Touch

2010-07-07T22:00:00.009-04:00

We departed Hull YC at 1330, intending a 280 NM leg to Shelburne, Nova Scotia. I am familiar with Shelburne Town and have made the jump from Provincetown MA to Shelburne twice. The leg from Hull is about 50 NM longer and will probably be the longest on this cruise.

We motorsailed comfortably into a light headwind until 1900 when we set the # 2 Genoa (130%) and were able to lay 090 M, due east (magnetically speaking), and our desired course to Brazil Rock off Cape Sable, Nova Scotia. Brazil rock isn't in Brazil, but it's the standard landmark when approaching Nova Scotia from the west. An hour earlier we'd encountered a somewhat unusual two-masted steam yacht about 90 feet on deck (left photo) who crossed us right to left (that is, he was the stand-on vessel). Strangely he gave little or no radar image, and I was almost surprised by his appearance. I politely dipped under his stern and continued on, neither vessel formally acknowledging the other.

By 1945 we had picture-perfect sailing: the self-steering windvane was doing all the work as we close reached on starboard tack into S winds of 8 to 12 knots, laying our course and making 4.8 knots over the bottom (photo at right). Were we to maintain this speed we would arrive in Shelburne much too early for both daylight visibility and for customs, but it was too soon to consider slowing down. About 2 hours later, the sea made the decision for us and we tucked 2 reefs in the main and one in the Genoa (to about 110% LP). Winds were S about 12 to 16 with bumpy seas, and I don't like bumps.

In this fashion we passed the remainder of this first day at sea.

Hull YC MA: Wed 07 Jul - Sad Day, Happy Daze

2010-07-07T12:00:00.010-04:00

The sailing problem as I see it is not so much getting there, as leaving there. We sailed into Hull exactly two weeks ago, almost to the hour. Since then we've had the good fortune to be welcomed into the lives and day-to-day activities of many folks in this town and nearby towns who, for reasons I cannot always fathom, just do it. They take you into their lives, their families, their confidences, almost as a matter of course. If you knew me you would never characterize me as "speechless." Just now I am speechless.

We will shortly be going offshore for a few days, trying for the Canadian Maritimes and some sightseeing there. The boat is ready and provisioned and the sails are bent on, but we cannot leave without mentioning a few folks at the Club who have borne the brunt of my visit.

Among the launch drivers are Chris, Mike, Brooke, Christian, Ned, and Nick. These are simply wonderful young people. Our stay would have been neither possible, nor as enjoyable, without the help of Club Steward Sue. Simply an outstanding person. Of course Club Commodore and New Jersey native Bill Schmid did his best to welcome the boat and crew and "show us a good time." He did so with relish.

Ralph and Nan, who came up with the idea of bringing Kerry Deare into Hull in the first place, are dear friends to whom we will always be grateful.

Finally there is the gang of ruffians known as Yoga Sailing. The group was established when the wives of several members formed a Tuesday evening yoga group. Obviously something had to be done with the husbands, and sending them off to sea seemed a good idea. Based on my sail with them last evening it was, and is, a good idea.

Here's to the derelicts of the sea. All of us.

Hull YC MA: Sun 04 Jul - Independence Day BBQ

2010-07-04T21:00:00.028-04:00

July 4th, a Sunday, served up delicious food late in the day and delicious weather early in the day. We’d invited friends Nan and Ralph aboard for a pleasant sail among the Boston Harbor Islands (photo upper left). I was prepared for the excursion thanks to an earlier sail with friend Neil (http://yachtkerrydeare.blogspot.com/2010/06/sailing-lessons-fri-25-jun-sunny-light.html), and on this occasion I had the added benefit of two guests with quite a bit of local sailing knowledge.

Later the members of the Hull Yacht Club sponsored a July 4th BBQ on the club veranda featuring all the traditional goodies and much good company. I had the opportunity to present Club Commodore Bill Schmid (photo upper right) with an official if slightly worn SCA burgee (http://yachtkerrydeare.blogspot.com/2010/06/schmoozing-club-of-america.html and photo at left) in appreciation of the club’s marvelous hospitality to Sonia and me. Bill kindly added it to the club’s collection in the bar, and reciprocated with a Hull YC burgee for Kerry Deare’s collection. Although it depends upon one's point of view, I suspect we got the better deal.

The club BBQ was a fitting finale to Sonia's holiday in Boston and Hull. To ensure we were aware of this, the club committee on local miracles presented to us our personal commemorative rainbow (photo at right).

Hull YC MA: Sat 03 Jul – Flaming Lobstahs

2010-07-03T22:00:00.001-04:00

Sonia and I had the very good fortune to be invited aboard the lobster boat Windermere to watch a part of the Fourth of July fireworks demonstrations. I say “a part” because in this neck of the woods fireworks demonstrations are a contact sport. The watch period is spread over several days and locals compete for best presentation. In the town of Hull the contests are so important that one block of neighbors competes against the next.

On Windermere, a Maine built boat with sweet lines and accommodations of yacht quality, Captain Peter Maloney is in his element. He's a superb mariner and fisherman whose experience ranges from yacht deliveries to professional fishing and beyond. We were among about 12 guests who were “forced” to enjoy soft-shell lobsters, a new experience for me and also for Sonia, who had until this evening never hazarded a lobster encounter, soft shelled or otherwise. We both loved it. When we arrived in the viewing area we rafted on three other lobstermen, sterns facing the fireworks barge, and watched over an hour of continuous pyrotechnics. Since fireworks are a favorite of Sonia, she was in heaven the entire evening. Meanwhile I kept right on the track of errant lobsters. Not a one got away.

Cambridge MA: Wed 30 Jun - Sunny and Comfortable

2010-06-30T23:00:00.005-04:00

Once again taking advantage of Boston's superb public transport network, we caught an early commuter train from Quincy Center into Cambridge and Harvard Square. This venue was not originally high on my list, but I soon found I'd underestimated the possibilities.

First off was a Harvard campus tour with senior Matt, a Philadelphia area native who gave the experience a personal and intimate feeling. The tour itself did not delve deeply into University history and Harvard's many famous graduates, but it seemed at least to us to provide a broad overview of customs, methods, and mores of Harvard University life.

After this slice of Harvardiana we next endured a slice of pepperoni pizza that passed for lunch and aimed in the direction of MIT. I'd originally thought we could hoof it but soon realized that MIT's campus was quite far from Harvard's. Enter "Billy," an instructor for the transport system who, after hearing my somewhat embellished tale of woe, arranged a free bus ride for the two of us down Mass Avenue all the way to MIT. It was beginning to seem that we would not manage a financial contribution to Boston's bus network no matter what.

Sonia was underwhelmed by the MIT campus after the relative pizazz of Harvard, but there was a certain directness and precision to the architecture that I found pleasing. We managed an impromptu tour on our own and headed back up to Harvard Square, this time finally putting real money into the collection box.

The day ended with dinner with friends who live locally and whose commentary as we walked along personalized many Boston landmarks including Beacon Hill, Copley Square, Boston Common, Boston Garden, and of course Newberry Street. Finally, after a car ride back to Hull and a long dark dinghy ride back to the boat, we called it a night.

Boston MA: Mon 28 Jun - The Freedom Trail

2010-06-28T20:00:00.001-04:00

We took an early commuter ferry from Hull into Boston, arriving at 0730. The plan was to walk the Freedom Trail that marks many historically important places and events related to the birth of the USA (Bunker Hill Monument at left). This is a fascinating and informative experience that really brings history alive, but as often happens, that's only half the story.

On the ride over Sonia and I discovered we'd left her camera on the boat. Not good news since we expected to see and do many things worth photographing. I reluctantly resolved to purchase a second camera but was unsure where, how, and especially what. So we started walking and looking and asking. By the time we reached Old North Church I was getting photographically desperate. I wandered into a small gift shop near the church and told the proprietor about my problem. She immediately suggested Bromfield Camera on Bromfield Street at the other end of town. When I asked for directions she pointed to a small cafe nearby and said: "See that man over there? That's Sonnie. He's the one you want to ask." So we did.

Sonnie owns a small cafe in Boston's North End where many residents are of Italian heritage. When I explained what I was trying to do, he immediately made a call to Steven, the owner of Bromfield Camera, and in no uncertain terms told him that he was sending over his friends, Sonia and Armond, that they needed a good deal on a nice camera, and that Steven should "take care of this." And that's exactly what happened one short taxi ride later. After Steven graciously treated us as family, we headed back to the North End, caught up with Sonnie who was having lunch at nearby Theo's, and profusely thanked him for his unbelievable hospitality. I guess you could say it was, so far at least, a pretty good morning.

Later we completed the entire Freedom Trail (Paul Revere Tomb at left), photographing madly along the way, and basking in the kind of immediate friendship and warm hospitality we'd come to expect in Boston.

Hull YC MA: Sat 26 Jun – Sunny, Slightly Cloudy, Light NW

2010-06-26T18:00:00.003-04:00

The Birthday Girl is on holiday! Sonia arrived at Hull about 1030, having left NJ in the dark at 0400. She's happy, slightly exhausted, and ready for Vacation Frolics.

Sailing Lessons: Fri 25 Jun - Sunny, Light SE, Small Seas

2010-06-25T20:00:00.005-04:00

A new friend, Neil, arrived at the Hull YC from his home in Brookline MA and joined me for a daysail among the Boston Harbor Islands. Although I have sailed past the entrance to Boston Harbor many times, I have never before stopped in to explore. I now wonder why it took so long to realize what I'd been missing.

Neil is a local sailor with a comprehensive knowledge of the Harbor Islands. He's also owned a sistership to Kerry Deare for 15 years, so stepping aboard my boat required no orientation. The weather really cooperated and we were able to complete a splendid 22 NM tour of the Boston Harbor Islands, ending the trip by picking up our mooring under sail in Hull Bay.

Along the way Neil and I combined our highly developed sailing abilities and massive accumulation of sailing experience to demonstrate the superiority of the Cape Dory 28 over any other yacht. Of course we hardly needed a reminder that this is the case.

Hull YC MA: Fri 25 Jun – Sunny Clear Light NW

2010-06-25T09:35:00.011-04:00

It’s evidently not yet time for “worse.” This morning as I was fussing on deck at 0530 the lobster boat Windermere came by slowly and chatted us up. Captain Peter Mahoney and mate Eric were bound for a day of fishing but before heading on out, Peter generously offered me his truck on shore if needed, and also asked if Sonia and I might like to ride out on Windermere next weekend to watch the Fourth of July fireworks. You should be able to predict our response.

Last eve Ralph, a friend who is sponsoring our visit to Hull YC, showed up and we tested the yacht club bar. Also present for the tests was a contingent of "Rhodes 19" sailors who'd been sidelined by a fast moving squall line that forced the cancellation of their regular Thursday evening series. You guessed it: the lost sailors who were rained out hid their disappointment well, all the while crying into their beer at the bar. Final Hull Yacht Club Bar exam grade: "E for Excellent."

Sonia arrives tomorrow, and that also is "E for Excellent."

Hull YC MA: Thur 24 Jun – Clear and Windy, Punchy Skies, SW 15 – 18

2010-06-24T18:00:00.003-04:00

Awake at 0430 trying to determine how to employ my time until 0800 when the launch runs and we go ashore for showers, an online fix, and human contact. Before we can determine these imponderables, it’s 0915 and another 4.75 hours have vanished into the “Do More Silly Boat Stuff” cavern. This happens every morning except Sundays during Lent.

John is working the early launch shift. He just turned 73, tells me he feels 15, and proudly mentions that his son is running his own fishing boat (Mass lobster, not Maine!). Since I am 67 going on 12 and clearly the junior crew member, I do not argue with his suggestions. John grew up in Compton RI and his father once cut ice in winter for shipment to the Big Cities. He was familiar with the area near Westerly where my father’s friend Jake lived and where I spent many a summer day getting addicted to and instructed by, the water.

After what seems a long time I am released from laptop prison and return to the boat and the wind. Things could be, and likely soon will be, worse.

Hull YC MA: Wed 23 Jun - Clouds and Sun; Calms and Wind

2010-06-23T18:00:00.023-04:00

Today we took early departure from Scituate in the direction of Hull MA and the Hull Yacht Club, our host for the next week or so. The ride covers a bit less than 17 NM and started out in a cloudy and lumpy fashion. After an hour we approached Minot’s Light, the famous “1-4-3” sentinel that guards approaches to Boston Harbor (photo left). Legend has it that each evening one of the first lighthouse keepers would flash “1-4-3” to his wife ashore to signify “I (1) - Love (4) - You (3).” Eventually the light characteristic itself was changed to reflect this and to this day many local folks have “1-4-3” engraved on their wedding rings and keepsakes.

Next up on the “tour” was Boston Light (below right), the oldest lighthouse in the United States and a very pretty sight, especially as the weather cleared and the sun broke through on our approach. Every time I’m told that Boston Light is the oldest lighthouse in the USA, I want to ask “which is the youngest?” and “why does age matter in the first place?”

Eventually we entered Hull Bay from Nantasket Roads, leaving to port the huge windmill on Windmill Point and then winding through the buoys to the Hull Yacht club float. Along the way

are views of the many fine seaside homes overlooking Hull Bay. The yacht club (http://www.hullyc.org/) is a charming low key facility with cordial members and staff. After only a few minutes we can conclude that we are already very glad to be here. Also we can safely say that Phase One of Kerry Deare’s “30th Anniversary Cruise” has been successfully accomplished.

Scituate MA: Tues 22 Jun - Sunny, Light Winds, Slight Seas

2010-06-22T18:00:00.025-04:00

We got moving from Onset Bay at 0445 and caught the ebb up the Cape Cod Canal, exiting the east end of the Canal almost exactly 1 ½ hours later. The early morning light as we headed east in the Canal was something to remember (photo left). I quite enjoy this motor boat ride, watching the impressive currents seize the boat’s long keel and push her from side to side. I’ve never attempted to run the Canal against the tide, nor do I plan to.

We then faced the 28.5 NM “slog” up to Scituate MA for the evening. Actually “slog” is too strong a description, since we had only light head winds and very small seas on this leg. With little or no traffic and the boat doing all the work, there was time for another “locker re-arranging” session and also time for ticking off a few small items on the chores list. Did I mention the private sun bathing session?

Scituate is an ideal stop on this route and I was welcomed by Rollie, the launch driver from EZ Rider. He’s a student and lacrosse player at Tabor Academy, and was getting practical experience “at sea” in the harbor. Very helpful chap. The remainder of the day was devoted to recovering from the too early start to the day.

Onset MA: Mon 21 Jun - Sonia’s Birthday and A Diesel Lesson

2010-06-21T18:00:00.008-04:00

Started the day off with an early telephone birthday wish to my best friend and wife, Sonia. I am not overjoyed at being away from home on her birthday, but sailing is a tough mistress. Besides, someone has to hold down a real job to support my lavish pleasures (yes, that just may be overdoing it). In fact Sonia will be joining me shortly here for a Boston holiday if all goes as planned.

Meanwhile the “diesel doctor” did make his rounds at Brewers and the diagnosis was close to what we suspected all along. It seems likely that I’ve been over-filling the diesel coolant overflow tank so that even the slightest expansion or pressure increase caused the coolant to flow through the tank pressure release fitting. Solution: drain a little coolant and maintain a lower level. That seems to have worked at least this afternoon because I left Brewers for Onset MA (right photo), a short 8 mile hop, and there was no coolant in the drip pan under the engine when I set the anchor. The price of this lesson: a mere 2 ½ hours of expensive yard labor at something like $95.00 per hour. Ouch, of course, but probably worth the peace of mind.

Brian, the mechanic, also helped with a few other Volvo details. Since the engine was new in 1993, I’d been trying to determine how to change the cooling system zinc. My main mechanic in Annapolis, Richard Vosbury, insisted there actually was no zinc in the system on this particular Volvo model. However all my manuals point out that is not the case and show a large bolt where the zinc is supposedly located. When Brian removed that bolt at my request, there was indeed no zinc. He also inadvertently located a weak electrical lug connection to the starter and replaced it before it shut us down at sea. I would say the Brewer service, while expensive, was of much value.

After some provisioning we headed over to Onset to wait on the tides at the Cape Cod Canal next morning.

North Falmouth MA: Sun 20 Jun - Clouds, Gusty SW Winds, Rolling Seas

2010-06-20T18:00:00.014-04:00

Departed Cuttyhunk Pond 0715 aiming for Onset MA just below the Cape Cod Canal, a distance of 24 NM. Buzzards Bay was making up early while we motorsailed along, initially with the main but later with only the Number 3 Genoa (photo at left). The Volvo was just kicking over and not working hard, and the short seas were coming up from behind with a menacing grin. We had a flood tide up Buzzards, so wind and seas were going in the right direction, as were we.

Unfortunately even with light use the coolant leak was still present and while not a deal-breaker, I decided to once again call in the “experts.” Any move in the direction of Newfoundland would depend heavily on a completely reliable power plant. I remembered that my friend Albert from Nova Scotia had good things to say about the Brewer Yard near Falmouth during his 2008 cruise southbound (http://tiptoesgreatadventure.blogspot.com/2008/09/brewer-marine-fiddlers-cove.html). So I “hung a right” for Fiddler’s Cove and here we are in luxury’s comfortable lap (photo of clubhouse at right) awaiting the Monday morning arrival of the “diesel doctor” who will, I hope, diagnose and cure what ails her.

Meanwhile, hot showers.

Cuttyhunk MA: Sat 19 Jun - Sunshine, Light SW Winds, Slight Seas

2010-06-19T18:00:00.008-04:00

Departed New Harbor 0500 trying for an early arrival at Cuttyhunk Island MA (photo left). Summer weekends at Cuttyhunk mean crowds and tight anchoring and I was determined to get in early. Motorsailed the entire way (about 38 NM) but alas, even our 1230 arrival made us late to the party so I anchored temporarily in the shallows on a rising tide until I could move to deeper water later in the afternoon. It seemed that every yacht in Padanaram also had the same idea, but considering they came only 12 NM, they won. Quite a colorful day for us boat watchers, with the binoculars getting much use.

On the ride from Block Island I was able to do the first of what will surely become many “re-sorting exercises” of gear and equipment aboard ship. I went through all the lockers below trying to organize the mass of stores and personal gear, plus yacht-related equipment, that had been loaded over the previous 2 ½ months. This is inevitable and boring but unless it is done there is no way to find important gear on the ship.

At Cuttyhunk I made another stab at locating a coolant leak on the Volvo diesel, an annoyance since last summer. Last fall I replaced several coolant hoses and all the rubber gaskets and I thought the issue resolved. We’d seen no leakage since April with about 17 hours on the engine prior to departure. However the leak showed up again motoring into Block Island. At Cuttyhunk I detected one leak in the coolant overflow tank and made adjustments. However this was not sufficient.

To Block Island RI:Thur 17 and Fri 18 Jun - Plenty of Sunshine, Big NW Winds, Big Short Seas, Light NW Winds, Slight Seas

2010-06-18T18:00:00.011-04:00

Next morning I entered the south end of the Point Pleasant Canal at 0630 heading for Manasquan Inlet and the Atlantic Ocean. I always find this chore unnerving due to the nature of the currents in the Canal itself and at the two bridges. All that is required for a major disaster is one little slip up with the diesel. However we made it without a problem this time and set out at 0730 upon a rather lumpy ocean, with the wind filling in with authority at NW 15 to 18 knots with gusts. There was an uncomfortable aspect to the motion with rather short seas from the NW and a slight SW swell. I set the Number 3 Genoa and two reefs in the new main and we were off and running up the coast.

Once I got set up with the wind vane doing all the work, there was not much to do but hold on, since reading and cooking would have to wait until we enjoyed more civilized conditions. That I did about 30 hours later at Block Island RI (map at left). We had heavy winds and unkind seas until about 0200 the following morning when things lightened up and the boat settled down slightly. Eventually the wind went light and this leg became a motor boat ride (photo above) for 8 or so hours until we anchored in New Harbor on Block Island.

I was happy to get the rest. Each trip starts out with trying to remember where I left my sea legs the last time I used them. I haven’t found them entirely yet, but we are headed in the right direction (East).

Bay Head NJ: Wed 16 Jun - Clouds and Light SW

2010-06-16T18:00:00.006-04:00

Departed deRouville’s Boat Shop on the Toms River at 1245 16 Jun 2010 bound up to Bay Head. This is a 3 hour motor boat ride through the shallows of northern Barnegat Bay passing, along the way, Mantoloking, one bascule bridge, and some very pretty coastal scenery and real estate (photo at left).

We arrived at Bay Head, a rather posh NJ shore town inhabited by folks from Princeton and a few CCA members, at 1545. To my knowledge there are few if any SCA members in residence, yet I was able to anchor securely near the Bay Head Yacht Club without causing too much fuss. This time the Posh Patrol did not try to enforce the local Italian quota. Good thing, too, since even though I was the representative of that group in town, that’s one above the limit.

Sailing ... Finally!

2010-06-11T02:18:00.029-04:00

Two months and eight days later, we go sailing! Having launched on 02 April 2010, yesterday we finally did what we're supposed to do and put wind in the sails. Nature cooperated with a light westerly that gently ruffled the waters on the Toms River and Barnegat Bay, and I was able to check out the new mainsail under sail. It looked fine and performed well in light air conditions, thanks to the efforts of Judy and Skip at Moorhouse Sails (http://www.mhsails.com/). Other systems also performed well and this first sail of the season was encouraging. Yet, boats being boats, this is hardly the time to lower one's guard.

When I step back and click on "pause" it becomes clear that even a simple daysail on local waters is a small miracle that only happens when many different people contribute to the effort. The list of individuals who gently nudged Kerry Deare along yesterday includes local boatyards, the sailmaker, many suppliers, the "Feds" (charts come from somewhere), and many friends and family members. I may be sailing solo but they're always on board.

Photo by Sherri deRouville of deRouville's Boat Shop (http://www.derouvillesboatshop.com/).

Schmoozing Club of America

2010-06-05T17:30:00.029-04:00

Many are familiar with The Cruising Club of America (CCA burgee at right). This club consists of elderly white men who decide the right thing to do on the water. In fact walking on the water is an important requirement for membership. While it is true that some CCA members have made praiseworthy passages in small boats*, the majority spend most of their time congratulating other members on their membership. What time is left is devoted to casting excoriating glances upon those who sink during initiation.

Many Americans, quite a few Canadians, and exactly 13 Brits don't fancy behavior like this even though these same folks would love to participate in it. Sadly I am one of these, having spent the first 65 or so years of my life waiting for that sacred phone call or letter admitting me to candidacy. I'm still waiting but 2 years ago I decided to take things into my own hands and established The Schmoozing Club of America (SCA burgee at left). Membership is tightly controlled with the single current member performing all the administrative tasks that keep the club going. It's a lot of responsibility, but worth all the hard work.

If you can't join 'em, lick 'em.

_____________

* "Small boat" in CCA-speak means 60 to 90 feet LOA.

Cruise Preparation (Well, Sort Of)

2010-06-01T07:56:00.010-04:00

There's The List, of course. This year's version was 8 single-spaced pages, and that on top of the 15 page list for a 2008 Bermuda cruise. Then there's The Other List.

I no longer cruise full time having done so for about 8 years in the 1990's. Yet from time to time I'm away from home sailing for extended periods. That will happen shortly if our cruise to the Maritimes works out, and this means The House List needs tending. The current version included exterior work (set up for summer fun, clean and stain the deck, break out the outdoor furniture, prune the trees and shrubs, set up the hoses and irrigation devices, rake away last winter's remains, and more), interior work (touch up the paint, do spring cleaning, arrange finances so Sonia won't fret the details, stock up on provisions for home and afloat, and more), and so on down the line. If one isn't careful, this sort of silliness can cut into sailing time.

Next there are those special projects, and that's what today is about. I'm just now awaiting the arrival of the insulation technicians who will add enough insulation in the attic spaces to double the "R" value to approximately R60. This is the last year that improvements like this will qualify for a federal tax credit, an incentive of much interest to us. The job is also an admission that some home repairs are best left to the professionals. I thought about blowing insulation into the attic spaces myself using rented equipment, but eventually I came to the same realization I'd had concerning the light at the top of the sailboat mast: that's why they call them "experts."

A Gentleman's Bosun's Chair

2010-05-28T06:17:00.023-04:00

The plastic base on my masthead tricolor sailing light cracked 2 years ago and I managed a quick fix while in Bermuda using sheet metal screws, electrical tape, and a climbing device called the "Mast Mate." This jury rig made the light operational and got us home but did not address the basic task of replacing the defective part. Without unstepping the mast this repair proved beyond my abilities considering the small parts, intricate fasteners, and close tolerances involved. Therefore I called in the experts.

Ocean Gate Yacht Basin on the Toms River in New Jersey (http://www.oceangateyb.com/) is a family business and perhaps one of the best operations of its type. Gary, son of the founder and one of the principals, is an old friend and agreed to the job. At the time I had no idea how he would do it but I found out a few days later (photo at left).

The solution not surprisingly was a "cherry picker" type truck, but one of impressive proportions. He simply backed up to the dock behind the boat, set the various supports that stabilize the long arm of the work platform, and shortly thereafter we were back in business. While he was up there Gary, a past master of boat rigs, also gave the rig the benefit of a quick check. Now that's a bosun's chair.

"Sailing Off Into The Sunset"

2010-05-26T05:59:00.007-04:00

I sometimes get asked about this and in my opinion there's a bit more to it than meets the eye. Here are a few suggestions.

"Sailing off into the sunset" is hard these days even for people with tons of money. One of the first things to consider is where you live. For example if you live anywhere on the US East Coast, "sailing off into the sunset" is a very difficult technical accomplishment. In fact it may be impossible. You will either crash into the dock at the west end of your marina, or run aground along some sandy coast. Either way you'll probably need costly repairs to the boat, and that will cut into the old nest egg. Some of the above comments will not apply if you have an amphibious vehicle.

Until a month or so ago it was possible to "sail off into the sunset" from the West Coast of Florida. Unfortunately the activities of Big Oil and some of their fully-owned subsidiaries in DC and Crawford, Texas, have curtailed a lot of this activity. Most of this sailing destination is now closed and will remain closed for what is called "the future" as far as marine life is concerned. According to the Federal Register "sailing off into the sunset" from western Florida is now under the control of the Department of Homeland Security and is regulated using armed USCG vessels. Be careful with this. It may be safer to just head for Cuba and suffer the consequences.

US West Coast sailors are luckier when it comes to "sailing off into the sunset." The only problems they encounter (besides racial profiling by the INS and Tea Party vigilante groups) are earthquakes and the accompanying tsunamis. I haven't personally experienced one of these but I'd guess that a set of sturdy drop boards and some good oilies are a good investment if you're thinking about this.

Happily these problems do not exist in many other parts of the world. If you live on the west coast of Ireland or in the Hebrides, you're good to go. Just don't forget to release all the docklines. The same is true for a lot of Portugal and western Spain. Western Africa is another possibility if you don't mind your typical bloody revolution every 3 weeks, genocide once or twice a decade, and bad drinking water. Do not (I repeat: DO NOT) enforce "close pack" on your crew. This leaves a bad impression with local authorities.

Right now we are not recommending Thailand, and in fact I'm not even sure they have a western coastline. I hear there are some bargain slips in Greece though. I don't want to give the impression that things are terrible everywhere, but you must admit that life used to be a lot simpler.

Good Old Little Boat

2010-05-20T06:38:00.011-04:00

About 20 years ago my friend Jean Marc was cleaning out his garage and offered me 2 small derelict boats if only I would haul them away. I countered his offer of "free" with a $100 bid and took both beasts down to the boatyard. The first, a 14 foot wood rowing pram, was reconditioned and awarded to my goddaughter to encourage her explorations of the salt marshes around Brigantine NJ. The second, a Howmar 8 footer, became my knockabout hard dink. I have never looked back.

Initially the Howmar was a total wreck. I had to rebuild the transom, the motor mount, reinforce the gunwales, fit "new" hardware (actually old bronze parts lying around the yard), etc. I cruised with this dink for over 17 years when, preparing for Kerry Deare's re-entry into polite society, I decided her tender needed a face lift. The picture tells the story.

Newfoundland Is A Large Island

2010-05-18T10:24:00.018-04:00

Once the charts and guides are assembled, the enjoyable task of planning a summer cruise begins. In my case it didn't take long to realize that Newfoundland is one large and far away place, and that maintaining the relaxed pace I favor would require very specific choices. I'd originally assumed that St. John's was an obvious stop on the itinerary where my wife could visit and enjoy the sights and people. After studying the charts I realized that St. John's didn't make sense for a small boat coming from, and returning to, New Jersey in a single season. I then started looking more closely at the South Shore and once again fell back in love with the Maritimes. The present plan will, I hope, develop into something approaching the following outline. (Photo by Ty and Suzanne on Liberty)

We will "scoot" from NJ up to Boston for a short stay, visiting friends and affording my wife an opportunity to drive up and enjoy Boston and the surroundings. Next it's over to Nova Scotia, clearing probably at Shelburne. Thence quickly along the Southeast Coast to perhaps Louisbourg, where we take departure for the French Islands of Saint-Pierre and Miquelon. From there it's over to Newfoundland proper, clearing in at Fortune Harbor. Then we hope to work west along this coast to Port aux Basques, and finally back offshore to Sydney NS and home via the Lakes.

This is a seemingly workable plan for a single-handed yacht with a circumscribed time window. The plan's upside is that the South Coast is one of the most scenic and enchanting parts of the Province; the downside is that my wife will be unable to visit because many places along the South Shore can only be reached by sea. Sailing is a compromise, but probably still worth the trouble.

Biker Dude Dinghy Motor

2010-05-17T18:10:00.009-04:00

Not many people know this, but Harley Davidson is intending to make a big "splash" in the outboard motor business. They're keeping a low profile so far, but it won't be long before the news gets out and all Hell's Angels break loose. Dig the photo at left if you still have doubts. I am fortunate enough to have an "in" at the factory and have recently gotten my hands on one of the first single cylinder 3.5 HP prototypes. These little babies are really impressive, and there is at least one story going around that the two cylinder 5 HP model has already put at least one 28 foot displacement sailboat up on plane.

That's about all the news I can give right now. The phone's ringing and I think it's Harley's legal department again. Wonder what that's about.

Safety Equipment - Jacklines

2010-05-11T05:58:00.015-04:00

We have been using a system of jacklines and harnesses for many years, but a few years ago I ran across an idea that seemed to offer solutions to some of the minor annoyances of such a setup. Typically one connects one end of the tether to the harness and the other to some sort of webbing or cordage jackline running along the deck fore to aft. This usually means that the end connected to the jackline is secured with a metal snap. In order to be effective these snaps are usually quite heavy, and when moving up and back on the boat they drag on deck, making quite a racket and beating up the deck and anything else they smack into. The idea I found that addresses this problem is to permanently secure a tether to each jackline using a loop in the tether itself (click on photo at right for details).

On Kerry Deare the jacklines run up each side of the deck essentially for the length of the boat (photo at left). The permanent tethers are fitted to each jackline and once mounted remain on deck. When not in use I simply secure each tether in a convenient location aft. Besides being quite strong and quiet, the are also instantly available and can be secured very quickly to either a separate harness or a harness-equipped lifevest . They are long enough to be easily reached from below when entering the cockpit. There is also the option of using the standard tether for one's harness to temporarily secure a second tether in unusual circumstances.

2010 Cruise Plans

2010-04-27T05:02:00.008-04:00

Two years ago we sailed to Bermuda for an extended visit. Prior to that, our last cruise was to Nova Scotia in 2002. The Maritimes have always held a strong appeal ever since our first visit in 1989. We visited again in 1997, 1999, and 2000. It seems we couldn't get enough, and that's perhaps why another visit is on the agenda. This time we hope to extend our range beyond Nova Scotia and try for Newfoundland. Take a look (photo by Beth and Evans).

It happens that a cruise from New Jersey USA to Newfoundland is actually quite longer than one to Bermuda. It's largely coastal and to the uninitiated that might seem less onerous than an offshore voyage. But the experienced voyager would not agree. It's usually land that causes difficulties, not water. The trials of an extended coastal voyage must not be underestimated.

Planning in earnest began in September 2009 with the purchase of guide books and charts. This is no small expense. Canadian charts average about $18 US, and I suppose we have 65 or 70 of these. In addition there are several versions of electronic charts that display on laptop computers. Then there are official publications and guide books. The list is long, and it's easy to drop between one and two thousand dollars US in a short period of time.

Once the requisite publications are available, the actual planning begins. More to follow.

Let the 2010 Warm Season Begin

2010-04-25T07:57:00.014-04:00

Kerry Deare was re-launched 02 Apr 2010, a sunny and calm Friday. She now floats in the still cold waters of Toms River NJ at the small boatyard described earlier. Aside from the usual checking out new parts, checking out old parts, testing new wiring, testing old wiring, loading gear, listening and looking for leaks, and trying to remember the details of rigging items, there isn't much to report. She looks just fine and is getting used to the comforts of being afloat where she belongs. Cosmetically and operationally the boat is in excellent condition once again.

This year we bent on a new mainsail, replacing the old sail built 21 years ago by the same sailmaker, Skip Moorhouse. Skip knows me and my requirements very well by now. Since this "Piney" is just as ornery as I, we get along well. So far the new sail looks good and most of the old running rigging fits perfectly. I've yet to complete a few minor fixes and sail on it, but I cannot see any problems coming up. We still have one or two "must fix" issues, including replacing a cracked tricolor base at the masthead, but it appears that we are on schedule. The 8-page "To Do" list gets more check marks each day.

Frenetic boatyard activity continues apace. The yard is really busy with many wooden boat projects, large and small. I take this as a favorable economic indicator for what people are doing with disposable income. Meanwhile it's nice to sit and gloat at all the work the "other guys" have ahead. Of course once that activity gets underway it usually means that one's own boat will shortly be saddled with a major deal-breaking issue that has to be fixed immediately, usually in the rain. Fingers crossed.

2009 Season

2009-11-01T18:00:00.000-05:00

The hustle and bustle of sailing to Bermuda resulted in something less than freewheeling enthusiasm as the warm part of 2009 approached. Consequently I "made do" and settled for local activities and a brief visit to Southern New England. This time my wife Sonia signed on for the duration and sailed overnight offshore for the first time in many years. She'd been wishing for a visit to Nantucket, and that meant 2 nights offshore from NJ. Unfortunately the weather didn't cooperate and we settled for Block Island and Narraganset Bay. "Settled" is not the best word to describe the trip, since it was quite lovely and restful despite the weather gods.

We visited the usual suspects with a side stop to see the USS Massachusetts. Then home down Long Island Sound stopping at City Island on the way. I hadn't seen City Island for over 25 years, and my take is that James Joyce knew what he was talking about.

The season ended right on time as it usually does, and it was at that point that ideas for the 2010 season began to take shape. That's really the subject of this series. More to follow.

Getting Up To Date Bermuda Style

2008-11-01T10:00:00.000-04:00

The cruise to Bermuda went off largely without incident. The sail down from NJ took about 6 days, and my wife Sonia visited by plane for a quiet and restful vacation. We celebrated our 10th anniversary with special dinners, a few "tell tale" adventures, and even a few presents. The only negative was that we were not able to catch up with all the folks we'd met during our 1994 Bermuda cruise. Some had moved, some had passed away, etc. We made up for this with new friends in Somerset and elsewhere.

After Sonia flew back to the US I diddled a bit, and as July approached and my taste for $50 hamburgers diminished, I cast off for NJ one more time. Had to pump all the way back, as there was an annoying leak at the through-hull for the speedo transducer. Also the Volvo diesel was a bit cantankerous since, despite what seemed like a thorough prep of the fuel system, unwelcome crud from the fuel tank found its way into the fuel lines clogging quite a few Racor elements. This of course is the price of having the boat in storage for years. However we made it back on time and easily enough. We finished out 2008 on the Barnegat, glad to be at rest once again.

Offshore Bound

2008-06-01T18:00:00.001-04:00

In the Spring of 2008 we once again were getting into the final re-dos and preparations for another Bermuda visit. This one held significance for many reasons, as it was the first cruise for the boat in years. In addition summer of 2008 would mark my wife Sonia's and my 10th wedding anniversary, and we wanted to spend it in a place with romantic potential. Third, it seemed like a great getaway for my wife from her workaday world, with strong potential for fun and relaxation. Oh, and of course it would add evidence to the fact that I am one of the world's most accomplished sailors. Well OK, the jury may disregard the last thought.

The list from the preceding season's work was still long but getting shorter each day. Once we felt ready to go, we staged a little party at the boatyard for the boat herself. She was dressed and spic-and-spanned and frankly, she looked hot. All agreed.

Spring 2008 Workout

2008-05-01T18:00:00.001-04:00

By early March 2008, a plan was shaping up to take Kerry Deare back to Bermuda for the 3rd time. The first was in 1987 and was quite an adventure for a first offshore solo voyage. The boat did well and made good time for a small yacht, but the return was an anti-climactic event that I eventually would come to expect with cruises like this. There really is no anticipation on the return leg, and one basically wants to just "get this thing over." The second trip from Fort Pierce FL to Bermuda included a rigging failure that certainly added some excitement (http://home.comcast.net/~kerrydeare). However the trip ended well, accompanied by the "chore" of returning to NJ. The planned third trip had several purposes and several agendas. It turned out that the boat was able to live up to expectations, and then some.

A Brief Recap - Part Two

2007-12-01T10:00:00.000-05:00

The little yard in New Jersey where Kerry Deare is kept came under new management a few years back. Visiting this yard is a step back in time. There is a small skilled crew who work at restoring and maintaining wooden boats of various vintages and sizes. The yard also does routine maintenance and storage on GRP boats owned by a few "holdovers" from an earlier era. The atmosphere is businesslike, low key, and relaxed.

I asked the yard to clean up the boat to the point where she would float while I did a thorough refit. This meant they had fun cleaning the topsides, painting the bottom, repairing a few plumbing items, cleaning the exterior teak, etc. These are chores I have always done myself but paying the yard bill was just the ticket to get motivated. Once she was back in the water, "The List" was developed and it eventually grew to 15 single-spaced pages the following May. As often happens, the level of effort and expense was well out of proportion to the net asset value of the boat. My justification was that Kerry Deare had been "without" for so long that she needed all the care and reassurance I could provide. And provide I did.

She came out of the water in late November with much accomplished and much more to do before going offshore the following Spring.

A Brief Recap - Part One

2007-11-01T10:00:00.000-04:00

Basically we got back into the "sailing business" in Summer 2007 after a hiatus of several years. Before then our last cruise was from New Jersey USA to the eastern end of Nova Scotia in Summer 2002. This was a fine cruise with nothing untoward to report. The Nova Scotia people were their usual warm and friendly selves, the weather was workable, etc. I believe this was our 4th visit to the Province and first time to the Lakes.

In the fall of 2002 my wife Sonia and I decided to have a new house built and that project, together with a few medical adventures since resolved, kept Kerry Deare out of action. The truth in fact is that the hiatus kept her out of shape and in a very poor state of repair, since she sat sad and neglected for many years.

So in Summer 2007 I jumped back in and opted to have the folks at our boatyard work on Kerry Deare. To repeat an earlier note, she is a 1981 Cape Dory 28 I have owned since new. Prior to 2002 she had been maintained to a very high standard by me. The idea of asking the yard to jump in was that (1) the cash outlay would motivate me to get a move on, and (2) I really did not want to do slave work cleaning up the hull, refurbishing the teak, etc. I planned 2007 not as a sailing year but rather a work year, and working on the boat in the water is the method of choice.

Yacht Kerry Deare

2007-10-01T10:00:00.001-04:00

Yacht Kerry Deare of Barnegat is a Cape Dory 28 foot sloop that I've owned since 1981. I've sailed her single-handed well over 100,000 miles to date. In the entries that follow I often write "we" did such-and-such, but it should be recognized that "we" refers to me and the boat. Only rarely is another person on board. Simple is good.

The original Kerry Deare web site with a few cruising stories is here:

http://home.comcast.net/~kerrydeare/

The tedium of maintaining these web pages has led to our using this web log. The current entry is only a placeholder until we determine what information will be recorded. After enduring the complexities of web pages for a very long time, I suspect this blog will be a much easier alternative. Hope we get around to posting something worthwhile soon.